Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 7

Georgian Early1800s Cannetille Filigree WiredPearl FloralSpray RedSilk PinBrooch

About the Item

Inspired by folk embroidery, filigree jewelry transformed in the early 1800s during the Georgian period into labor-intensive cannetille, like this antique handmade intricately-wired metal-frame brooch depicting a floral spray. Resembling Silesian wire-ornamentation, this metallic wire and red braided-thread brooch features a single seed pearl bead at the center of its flower, which was an extraordinarily costly gem at that time. When most likely made by a goldsmith or ironwork artisian in France or Germany, where art styles celebrated nature and rural traditions in the early 19th century, precious metals were extremely scarce in Europe since the Napoleonic wars so alloys were used instead, such as for this brooch. Consistent with the timely rarity of gold and silver through the 1830s, mostly common materials add color and texture to this brooch, which partly mask the less expensive alloy that may be Berlin Iron dating as early as 1805. In contrast to the spiraling metallic wire on three of the petals and a leaf, the other red ones were apparently created by tightly wrapping silk thread around each wire before it was strung all around each individual frame, which created three-dimensional centers where they overlap. This echos the other curvilinear aspects of the essentially convex brooch, whereby wire-wrapped floral stems form the background. As the handmade metal pin that loops into both the hinge and C-clasp is dark in color, it may also have been painted with black enamel that has worn off in spots. Otherwise the brooch is in very good condition.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Gilt Metal,Berlin Iron
  • Stone:
    Pearl,Freshwater Pearl
  • Stone Cut:
    Bead
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1.19 in (30 mm)Depth: 0.79 in (20 mm)Length: 2.37 in (60 mm)
  • Style:
    Georgian
  • Place of Origin:
    Europe
  • Period:
    Early 19th Century
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1805-1839
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218525592

More From This Seller

View All
Antique ArtNouveau Austria Scheid RareMark Pave BlueZircon Silver Snake Brooch
By Georg Adam Scheid
Located in Chicago, IL
During the Art-Nouveau period while German-born Vienna-based silversmith, niello master, and entrepreneur Georg Adam Scheid (1837-1921) was prospering from a related refinery busines...
Category

Early 20th Century Austrian Victorian Brooches

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, Sapphire, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver

MiriamHaskell WWII Era GoldGilt Filigree Cast Butterfly FrankHess Pre1945 Brooch
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
A child of the Art-Nouveau period, Miriam Haskell loved its butterfly design-motifs, which are found in many pieces of costume jewelry by her first designer Frank Hess. His butterfly...
Category

Vintage 1940s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal, Base Metal

Henry Schreiner 1930s ProngSetCrystal Flora Spray Paisley Shadow Box Gilt Brooch
By Henry Schreiner
Located in Chicago, IL
Henry Schreiner, the Austrian-born blacksmith founder of Schreiner New York in 1932, handcrafted this multi-color prong-set Bavarian-crystal, stylized-flora spray, gold-gilt brass br...
Category

Vintage 1930s American Artist Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Brass, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

Couture 1938 France Depose ElsaSchiaparelli Pagan FeatherCrystalGold Bird Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Unusually decorated with small partridge feathers like the yellow-gold gilt necklace commissioned by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) that is featured on the front-and-back covers and centerfold of the French costume-jewelry hardcover book Lina Baretti Parures authored by Patrick Mauries, this unique pave-crystal yellow-gold gilt metal partridge-on-a-branch brooch is further distinguished as an unsigned Parisian-couture piece for Italian-born Schiaparelli with its combination of embossed text "Made In France" and "Modele Depose", along with the trombone clasp often used in the early 20th Century for custom-made French small brooches. The book centerfold on pages 90-91 shows a closeup of the feathered necklace created by French-born Corsican Baretti, whose intricate decoration often mixed ready-made textural or shiny materials like velvet, cork, wire, rhodoid or raffia with custom-made metal, plastic or glass by specialized Parisian workshops such as Maison Gripoix. The Baretti-book caption about the attributed necklace notes: "Collier realise pour Elsa Schiaparelli. Liege, soie, cannetille, perles de verre et plumes de perdix. Chaine en metal." While none of the captions date this necklace--which could have been from the same commission as our brooch--Baretti created one-of-a-kind jewelry for Schiaparelli from the 1930s to the early 1950s until the fashion designer retired. Our brooch was most likely made for a fashion-show debut of one of Schiaparelli's themed clothing collections in the late 1930s for which she commissioned many costume-jewelry paruriers including Baretti. See our photo of a Schiaparelli 1930s...
Category

Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

MiriamHaskell WWII PurpleGlassFlowers GoldLeaves WiredPlasticBack Pre1945 Brooch
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Beginning in 1939, Miriam Haskell asked her first costume-jewelry designer Frank Hess to spare the use of metal during WWII while war materials were needed in the United States. So t...
Category

Vintage 1940s American Baroque Revival Brooches

Materials

Mixed Metal

Couture 1937-40 ElsaSchiaparelli MarcelVertes Harlequin Duck GlazedCeramicBrooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Between the first ad campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937 and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade, while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce in Paris, this whimsical red glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with dashes of turquoise or black glaze. Significantly, the trombone clasp of the brooch pin, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's fashion shows themed "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domesticated white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, Schiaparelli had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet museum. Another relevant Met acquisition of the designer's couture evening gown, which it dates to Summer 1940, features three large glazed-ceramic fasteners in a contrasting color matching our brooch. The like findings, materials, construction, text, object, and palette aside, accessory-adorned ducks were also among the figurative animals commissioned by Schiaparelli for that last collection before the Germans dominated Paris by June 1940, which is evidenced by the photo of the dated gilt hatpin depicting a bejeweled head with a bill that appears in the book by Patrick Mauries about another Schiaparelli-associated French parurier Lina Baretti (pages 124-125). See our other listing for one of Baretti's uniquely feathered designs, which likewise has a pronged gilt frame with trombone clasp like ours, but whose partridge subject best suits an earlier Schiaparelli collection for Fall 1938 titled "Pagan". For us, distinguishing our brooch from other one-of-a-kind ceramic pieces created for Schiaparelli couture...
Category

Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches

Materials

Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

You May Also Like

auth MIU MIU gunmetal & DOUBLE CRYSTAL Brooch
By Miu Miu
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Miu Miu double crystal brooch in gunmetal metal. Embellished with a big and a small crystal. Has been worn and is in excellent condition. Comes with dust bag and box. ...
Category

2010s Brooches

HERMES palladium MEDOR TWILLY SCARF RING Set of 3
By Hermès
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Hermès Medor Twilly scarf ring set of 3 in 2 different sizes. Made of Palladium. Have been carried and are in excellent condition. Come wi...
Category

2010s Brooches

Chanel Poured Glass and Paste Clover Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Clovers are another motif Chanel has revisited many times since the 1930s. This elaborate dimensional brooch derives from the Gripoix workshops in Paris. Dozens of rhinestone pegs de...
Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Bronze

Chanel Dog Tooth Pearl Flower Brooch
By Maison Gripoix for Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel's sapphire poured glass, paste and dog tooth pearl brooch. The central motif, very classic in the Chanel iconography is mounted atop triangular ...
Category

Vintage 1950s French Renaissance Brooches

Materials

Silver Plate, Bronze, Enamel

Chanel Emerald Cabochon Kilt Pin Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Coco Chanel synthesizes her love of rare tumbled precious stones, with the Kilt Pin (her visits to the Scottish Highlands) into one large signature brooch. T...
Category

Vintage 1950s French Brooches

Materials

Gilt Metal, Brass, Bronze

CoCo Chanel Renaissance Crest Brooch
By Robert Goossens for Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
CoCo Chanel Renaissance style oval crest brooch in a modified quatrefoil form with signature cabochon emerald and ruby pate de verre stones and crystals. ...
Category

Vintage 1950s French Renaissance Brooches

Materials

Bronze, Gilt Metal, Gold Plate

Recently Viewed

View All