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HattieCarnegie PostWWII Crystal GoldGiltMesh FlutedBalls Dangle Climber Earrings

About the Item

Hattie Carnegie (1886-1956)--one of the leading American entrepreneurs of made-to-order and ready-to-wear fashion for four decades--began producing costume-jewelry parures around WWII to accessorize her high-end clothing, such as for her evening gowns created by progressive designers Norman Norell, Pauline Trigere or James Galanos. These unsigned climber earrings with dangles from a Carnegie-commissioned set are In the style of one of her early jewelry paruriers Julio Marsella, who made similar but signed pieces that included gold-gilt mesh metal for other American costume-jewelry brands such as Hobe and his own eponymous label between 1945-1957. This bright yellow-gold clip-fastened pair with his complex construction are adorned with sparkly foiled clear crystals whose prong settings are unusually linked through soldered bands. Each of the three five-stone L-shaped band dangles a highly textural ball that is either fluted or has filigree that surrounds a crystal-embedded rondel. As the parures made before Carnegies death included a brand stamp or cartouche on at least one of the matching pieces, those that were unsigned with foil tags that were removed can be identified by distinct findings or construction that are also found on the signed piece. On these earrings such findings include: the cupped many-pronged crystal at the top of each earring (see our other listing for the floral starburst brooch with matching settings for blue and green crystals); the undulating rondelle whose crystals are caged in curved settings like eyes; the ear-clip with oval depression; and the flat-bar base that is also on the underside of some ring settings. We think the trend-setting designs that Carnegie commissioned for her boutiques, and later for high-end department stores like I.Magnum and Neiman Marcus under the brand Hattie Carnegie Originals, are the most undervalued fashion and costume jewelry as she was the American counterpart to French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel during the first half of the 20th Century.

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