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French Art Deco AGL Natural No-Heat Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Earrings

About the Item

Created in France circa 1920, these Art Deco platinum pendant earrings are set with approximately 13.00 carats of sapphires and 7.00 carats of diamonds. Each pendant earring is designed as a cushion-cut diamond top suspending an articulated cascade of stylized diamond foliate elements and two cushion-cut sapphires, one freely hanging, terminating in a flexible diamond fringe, with millegrain accents throughout. Luxuriously long period earrings of this size and quality almost never survived the dictates of changing couture and hairstyles, and these rare jewels glamorously convey the sparkling, fast-moving modernism of the 1920s. Product Details: Item #: ER-20916 Circa: 1920 Dimensions: 3.00" length, 0.875" width. Materials: 4 cushion-cut blue sapphires (weighing 4.14 carats, and weighing approximately 5.06, 1.90 and 1.95 carats); 2 square cushion and 110 old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 7.20 carats); Platinum Signed: French dog's head guarantee stamps for platinum Documentation: The four sapphires are accompanied by AGL report 1132932 A and B dated 13 July 2023 stating that the sapphires weighing approximately 5.06, 1.95 and 1.90 carats are of Thailand origin, while the sapphire weighing 4.14 carats is of Madagascar origin. Literature: For elongated Art Deco pendant earrings in a similar style, see Earrings From Antiquity to the Present, by Daniel Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, pp. 156-161. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: These early French Art Deco earrings retain the former period's fascination with foliate elements, but they are now highly stylized and subordinated to geometric framing. Their strong design is enlivened by their great length and full articulation, with an additional delicate fringe enhancing their constant movement and sparkle. The earrings are marked by bold color and the appearance of volume, but their minimalist platinum mountings and use of negative space maintains their airy lightness.

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Made circa 1925, these Art Deco platinum, lapis, and jadeite pendant earrings were created in Paris. Each elongated, articulated form is designed as a circular diamond top suspending a cascade of tapering old single-cut diamond links highlighted by a jadeite "bi" and a lapis drop, with millegrain accents and original screwback findings. Graceful and lightweight, these extra long, classic French Art Deco earrings are exquisitely made, comfortable, and imbued with colorful, sparkling movement. Item #: ER-21789 Country: France Circa: 1925 Dimensions: 3.00" length, 0.50" width. Materials: Lapis lazuli; Jadeite; 36 old single-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 0.86 carat); Platinum Gram Weight: 9.5 g. Signed: French assay marks for platinum, Victor Réard maker's mark on findings Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: These delicate and lively pendant earrings are rare survivals from the Art Deco period. They were among the most beloved styles of the 1920s, their markedly elongated forms complementing short hair styles and vertical flowing gowns with flexible trim. Very often, 1920s earrings were shortened later, falling victim to changing hairstyles and couture. On the original findings is the mark of a specialist Parisian workshop located in the Marais, Victor Réard. The workshop was founded in 1921 as the ultimate successor to Achille Leroy. Historically, the workshop had produced refined parts and materials- enamels, secret closures, special necklace clasps, stone mountings, and other findings, for important firms such as Maison Boivin.
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