Ancient Etched Carnelian Eye Bead with Lapis Lazuli, 22k Gold, Handmade Clasp

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About the Item

Twenty-seven carnelian beads, nine of which are patterned (commonly called “etched” carnelians), alternating with twenty-eight lapis lazuli beads. Each ancient stone bead is separated by a granulated 22k gold ring bead, fifty-four in all. The beading tips and hook and eye clasp are also handmade from 22k gold. The center bead is a tabular etched carnelian 1.7 cm in width, 6.2 mm in thickness at the center and tapering to 3.6 mm thickness at the edge. The drill hole is 2.5 mm in diameter. The carnelian is translucent so that when held up to the light it can be seen that he drill hole is one continuous drilling, and not two holes drilled from each end that meet in the center of the bead. The pattern comes from heat treating, which is part of the process of “etching” the white line into the face of the bead. This is done by applying a strong alkaline substance (such as natron) mixed with a vegetable gum extracted from plants and then heating the bead until the applied design fuses with the stone matrix of the bead. This process was perfected by the Harrapan civilization over four thousand years ago. There was a second period of production two thousand years ago and later during the Sassanian period in Persia after 525 A.D. This single circle, “eye” bead is typical of the earliest period, from four thousand years ago. The two lozenge shaped tabular carnelian beads are likewise etched with an infinity or “eyeglass” pattern on both sides. These beads are 9 mm and 9.5 mm in height, 5.5 mm and 6 mm in width, and 4 mm in thickness. The drill holes are 1.5 mm in diameter. This pair is typical of the middle period of production. There are an additional six carnelian bicones that are etched with two white bands. One of these is 1 cm in length; the remaining ones are 1.1 cm in length. They are 4 mm, 4.5 mm in width at the centers and 3.2 mm in width at the ends. The drill hole diameters are 1.5 mm in diameter. This type is also typical of the earliest period, but the size of the drill holes suggests these beads are from two thousand years ago, the middle period. The twenty-eight lapis beads that alternate with the carnelians are from 6 mm to 9 mm in length and 3.5 mm to 4.5 mm in width. The ends are slightly rounded. The drill holes are 2.5 mm in diameter. There are an additional eighteen small carnelian beads 3.5 mm in width and 3 mm in length. The drill hole diameters are 2 mm. These beads came from the Swat Valley region of northern Pakistan. Two thousand years ago, this area was part of the trans-Himalayan culture that included influences from ancient India, Persia, Tibet and China through the Silk Road. The necklace is 17 1/8 inches (43.5 cm) in length. The necklace weighs 17.3 grams.

Creator:
David Ebbinghouse
Metal:
22k Gold
Stone:
Carnelian,Lapis Lazuli
Stone Cut:
Bead
Weight:
17.3 g
Dimensions:
Length: 17.13 in (435 mm)
Style:
Artist
Place of Origin:
United States
Period:
15th Century and Earlier
Date of Manufacture:
Unknown
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. All of the stone beads used in this piece are ancient. The goldwork is modern and was done by our expert goldsmith, Michael Winsten, to enhance the beauty of the ancient beads.
Seller Location:
Bloomington, IN
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU2425216448062