4.5 Carat Diamond "Mad Heart" Pendant in Platinum with Silver Akoya Pearls

We acquired this extraordinary pendant from an antique jewelry dealer in New Zealand. Sort of a hybrid between a garland and a wreath, it boasts at least 1.7 carats in old cut diamonds plus eight pearls, all meticulously set from its hinged bale to its hinged diamond "tail." The enhancer bale is split in the back so that it can be worn with pearls. To that end, we're including a gorgeous 16" strand of 5.5 to 6mm Akoya saltwater pearls. We had these pearls strung specifically for this pendant, and to give the necklace a more contemporary feel, the pearls have been fully knotted in black silk, which we think really pops with the oxidized face of the pendant. The closure is a 14 karat white gold pearl clasp. WEIGHTS & MEASUREMENTS: Pendant Length: 2" Pendant Width (at widest point): 1-1/8" Pendant Weight: 7.15 grams Necklace Length: 16" (See below for more information about these pearls) Total Weight (pearl necklace + pendant): 17 grams Diamonds: 54 stones ranging from 1.2mm to 3.9mm for a total estimated diamond weight of 1.73 carats. More information on the diamonds is provided below. Pearls (Pendant): Eight pearls ranging from 3.5mm to 5.6mm for a total estimated pearl weight of 0.59 grams (0.157 momme). More information on the pearls is provided below. METALS & PENDANT AGE: We think this pendant probably dates from the late 19th or very early 20th century. While the pearls and the diamonds provide clues, the big tipoff is the fact that the stones are set in a thin layer of silver soldered onto 14 karat gold. This technique -- a thin layer of white metal (platinum was also used after around 1870) -- was used until white gold came into general use in the mid- to late 1910s. The distinctive black metal finish is nothing more than generations of the silver's natural oxidization. THE DIAMONDS: The diamonds on this piece predate the proliferation of bright white and clean South African diamonds...

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