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Rare 18th Century Portuguese Cluster Ring Minas Novas Rock Crystal Antique
About the Item
A rare Portuguese 18th century ‘minas novas’ rock crystal cluster ring, circa 1770. A lovely example of Georgian period Portuguese jewellery, this marquise-shaped ring was crafted in 15K gold and displays excellent craftsmanship. The larger central faceted stone is surrounded by two concentric rows of densely set rock crystals, separated by a gold beaded border which is a typical feature of Portuguese jewels of this period. The stones are all in foil-backed and closed settings, allowing the stones to glisten marvellously in candlelight. They range from greenish-sea foam to pale dusty blue in appearance, some with an even darker lustre. The closed underside of the bezel is curved to align with the natural curvature of the finger. Although the original shank has been replaced, probably from a resizing done in the late 19th to early 20th century, the colour and style of the later shank match the rest faithfully.
Minas novas refers to rock crystals or quartz which originate from Minas Gerais, Brazil. The late 18th century saw a wealth of Portuguese jewellery design as bountiful gemstone yields from these Portuguese-controlled mines allowed jewellers to experiment with sumptuous designs using a variety of colourful gems including quartz, topaz, beryl and chrysoberyl.
This elegant ring sits fairly flat on the finger to allow for frequent wear and remains in great wearable condition despite its significant age. Under loupe magnification, there are some age-related abrasions to the gem facet junctions (difficult to spot with the naked eye) and some damage to one of the stones (causing it to appear darker). There is also some age-related patina, tarnish, and light surface wear to the gold. As the stones are in foil-backed settings, you should limit exposure to water when wearing this jewel, as it might make the foil darken and cause the stones to appear dull.
Two very similar late 18th century Portuguese cluster rings are in the Koch collection (no. 957 and 958), “Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection” by Anna Beatriz Chadour (message for photo for example).
UK size N 1/2, US size 7
7.41g, unmarked but tests as 15K gold. The cluster head measures 28mm x 18mm.
- Ring Size:7 US, Resizable
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:7.41 g
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1770
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU2845220500712
Resizing is available.
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Ceremonial Use:
During the 19th century, many rings were made every year by the royal jewellers for ceremonial use. Examples of these lavish cluster rings being worn for these life-cycle ceremonies can be seen on old photos and paintings of the Royal Tonsure Ceremony, also known as ‘the cutting of the top-knot’ ceremony, which marked the transition from childhood into adulthood for all of the (many!) sons and daughters of the Siam royal family.
The huge expansion in the number of royals in 19th century Siam stemmed from Kings Mongkut (Rama IV) and Chulalongkorn (Rama V) being highly polygamous. They had a joint total of 124 wives and 159 royal children, each requiring their own ceremonial regalia and princely jewels. As a result, Bangkok became home to some incredibly skilled goldsmiths in this period. The Tonsure ceremony was performed by the King, and lasted three days and three nights. All of the royal children would be dressed in the most splendid costumes and adorned with a vast amount of jewels on several parts of the body. Their costumes and jewels differed according to their title and rank. Diamonds for instance, would be bestowed to the highest ranking noble children. The royal children were allowed to keep their regalia and jewels as a present on entering adulthood to indicate their social status among society.
Over the years, these royal jewels have been dispersed across the many noble families, with currently only a few important pieces remaining in the royal collection. Today, the number of royals in Thailand is contracting as the country follows the Chinese nobility system whereby with each generation the noble rank of a family decreases by one ranking so that eventually the majority of descendants will lose their noble status completely. This loss of royal privilege, coupled with the dilution of wealth has meant that items such as this ring become available on the open market. Following the end of the absolute monarchy in Thailand in 1932, many members of the royal family relocated to Europe and as a consequence, princely Thai items can occasionally be found in the European art market.
Gift Exchange:
In Siam culture, great importance is placed on the ancestral process of gift-exchange. During the reign of King Mongkut, close relationships with some powerful countries were cultivated in order to hold the balance of power and to save Siam from being colonised. The King used gift-exchange to establish diplomatic relations with other heads of state around the world, as well as with other kings, princes and sultans closer to home. He sent troupes of ambassadors to England (1857) and France (1861) with seemingly endless amounts of trunks filled with lavish gifts in order to dazzle the heads of state with the extraordinary quality and variety of Siam craftsmanship.
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