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Antique Byzantine Gold Ring with Garnet and Emerald

Antique Byzantine Gold Ring with Garnet and Emerald

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Antique Byzantine Gold Ring with Garnet and Emerald

About the Item

Openwork Double Gemstone Ring of Garnet and Emerald Byzantine Egypt, Alexandria?, 6th – 7th century AD Height 32 mm., exterior width of hoop 32 mm., bezel diameter 15 x 16 mm. Weight 10.5 gr., US size 6, UK size L ½ This 'opus interrasile' hoop is oval in shape and hollowed out, and it widens towards the bezel. There the two parts of the hoop are connected by two gold globules and support a bezel with a high conical setting. Set within is an almandine garnet cabochon, framed by a wreath of pearls held by four gold loops. Inserted at the bottom of the hoop is a collet-set emerald cabochon. The openwork is embossed, chiseled, and engraved, and the shoulders are ornamented with lotus-like flowers framed by rope-like borders. Settings and stones aside, the hoop of a ring offers a ready surface for decoration and plentiful scope for artistry. Curvilinear naturalistic forms – vines, flowers, and leaves – have often provided the models for creative design extending all the way around the hoop of a ring, from the vine-like openwork favored in antiquity to Louis Wièse’s neo- Gothic designs. This ring’s striking openwork design show a combination of Byzantine and Egyptian styles. With its 'opus interrasile' hoop, colorful gemstones, and wreath of pearls, this ring incorporates many of the elements employed by Byzantine goldsmiths working in Constantinople, but it was most probably made in Alexandria in Egypt. Byzantium supported different centers of production, especially in regions of great wealth, and in addition to the imperial court in Constantinople these included Palmyra in Syria and Alexandria in Egypt. The distinctive engraving of the gold with its feathery style of foliage is reminiscent of architectural details found in Egyptian stonework of the sixth century AD. While the openwork shoulders of this ring are typically Byzantine in design, the more common iconography of vines and grapes found in Byzantine jewelry has been adapted here to a more Egyptian taste by the choice of lotus-like flowers. Greater intricacy of ornamental patterns and more elaborate engraving also set this ring’s band apart from Byzantine examples, with flowers that appear more realistic. Similar features are found on earrings from the Treasure of Mersina in the Hermitage, St. Petersburg, and from the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, as well as on a necklace made around 500 AD and found near Asyut in Egypt. That necklace’s chain links resemble this ring in their style of engraved openwork, as well as in the use of gemstones surrounded by a wreath of pearls. Wreaths of pearls like the one here, often loosely attached by loops or gold wires and framing gemstone settings, are distinctive in design, yet have not been attributed to a particular region of the Byzantine Empire. They are to be found on elaborate rings with large, high bezels in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum, Zurich; and the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, as well as on a pair of magnificent bracelets of the sixth century AD, probably made in Constantinople, now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Like the bracelets completely encrusted with gemstones and pearls, this elaborate ring includes an emerald at the bottom of the hoop, where it would have been virtually invisible when worn.

Ring Size:
6 US, Not Resizable
Metal:
Gold
Stone:
Emerald,Garnet,Pearl
Stone Cut:
Cabochon
Weight:
10.5 g
Style:
Byzantine
Place of Origin:
Egypt
Period:
15th Century and Earlier
Date of Manufacture:
6th- 7th century
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Chicago, IL
Reference Number:
Seller: R-7601stDibs: LU2334213274872

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