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1920 Bernard Poitevin #1 (Like Audemars Piguet) Vintage Mens Officers 18K Gold
$6,245
£4,710.42
€5,432.98
CA$8,814.99
A$9,810.36
CHF 5,107.51
MX$118,470.59
NOK 64,052.85
SEK 60,501.95
DKK 40,569.89
About the Item
NAMED ONE OF WATCHPRO MAGAZINE’S “HOT 100” - THE TOP 100 INFLUENCERS OF THE U.S. WATCH INDUSTRY. HOW CAN WE SERVE YOU?
We’re new to offering our carefully curated collection on 1stDibs, but we have sold over 10,000 fine watches and exceptionally served thousands of customers with a 5.0 star rating.
1920 BERNARD POITEVIN #1 (Like Audemars Piguet) Vintage Mens Officers 18K Gold Watch - Ultra Rare
Exceedingly Rare & Very Fine - Stamped #1
In today’s collecting world, some of the most desirable modern independents built their reputations not by making every part in-house, but by starting with the finest high-grade ébauches and elevating them through meticulous finishing, thoughtful design, and exclusive small-batch production.
Early F.P. Journe creations, Kari Voutilainen’s Peseux 260 pieces, Roger Smith’s first post-Daniels watches, and Habring²’s re-imagined Valjoux calibres all follow this path — watches that command serious collector interest -- many costing well into five figures - because they blend technical pedigree with the unmistakable imprint of the maker’s hand.
A century earlier, Bernard Poitevin occupied a similar niche in Parisian horology. Working from his Rue Vivienne atelier — with additional workshops in Geneva — Poitevin and his small team produced watches for an elite clientele: chronometers, minute repeaters, and even grand complications, and custom commissions for prestigious retailers like Tiffany & Co.
His output was small, his standards exacting, and his name carried weight among connoisseurs of precision and refinement.
Today's offering showcases this exceedingly rare and high-grade Bernard Poitevin mens 18K wristwatch from 1920 with very pleasing officer's style.
Bernard Poitevin - A Top Independent Horologist and Leading Figure in French Watchmaking:
Many of you won't be familiar with the name Bernard Poitevin but I think most of you will find his history interesting. Besides making specialized complicated pocket watches, like incredible "grand complications" movements (like a minute-repeating mechanism, perpetual calendar, chronograph, and moon phases all in one-watch) and sophisticated watches like a two-train independent seconds chronograph made for Tiffany & Co., certain example of his timepieces earned First Class timing certificates (Bulletin de 1ère Classe) from the Geneva Observatory – a testament to their precision and quality.
While his career (c.1850–1890) largely predated the mainstream wristwatch era, his timepieces are celebrated in major collections and auctions, reflecting their rarity and high craftsmanship. Essentially all known examples are exquisite pocket watches.
This Bernard Poitevin watch, dating to 1920, is an exceptionally rare Poitevin-signed wristwatch — a category of his work that is virtually absent from the market.
Poitevin’s business was succeeded by others (Rizzoli & Deschamps in the 1880s, then Louis Gironde by the 1890s) who continued operating at the same Paris address. Under these successors, the firm remained focused on high-grade watches and chronometers for the French market, even earning gold medals at the Geneva 1896 and Paris 1900 exhibitions. By the early 20th century, they were also participating in chronometer competitions with great success (dozens of first-class observatory chronometers).
It is within this span of time that any Bernard Poitevin–signed wristwatch from the 1910s–1930s must be viewed: likely a product of Poitevin’s lineage of watchmakers, preserving his name and standards. It represents a fascinating crossover of 19th-century French horological excellence into the new world of wristwatches. Indeed, anecdotally, collectors have noted the existence of at least one unusually complex early wristwatch signed by Poitevin – reportedly with a very high jewel count – suggesting the firm’s experimental foray into wristwatch design. A watch bearing the Poitevin name, especially a wristwatch, is very rare and embodies the legacy of one of Paris’s great horologists.
The Movement:
As one would expect from a watch like this, its movement is both fine and interesting. It is based on the HPVM caliber ebauche likely made by JLC but more famously associated with some of Audemars Piguet's earlier wristwatches. Audemars Piguet’s archives show that around 1915–1919 they utilized this 10''' calibre HPVM– a manually wound mechanical movement of exceptional quality, and is described in literature as “one of the earliest calibers” Audemars Piguet used in wristwatches.
The HPVM’s use is documented in a handful of elite watches from the late 1910s. Audemars Piguet used this calibre in small series; for example, a platinum Audemars Piguet tonneau wristwatch from 1919 (movement no. 21772) with cal. HPVM 10''' was sold by Christie's. According to Audemars Piguet’s historians, at least three AP wristwatches from 1918 are known with the HPVM calibre, one of which was co-signed by Cartier on the dial, which suggests AP supplied a few to Cartier’s Paris boutique, indicating the HPVM’s appeal to top-tier jewelers. In all these incarnations, the HPVM was prized for its compact yet robust engineering and fine finishing. It represents a bridge between Swiss innovation and French luxury retail: a Swiss-made movement finished to the highest standard, often cased and sold by eminent French/Swiss retailers. Its historical importance lies in being part of the first wave of true wristwatch movements, at a time when the wristwatch was still a novelty for gentlemen. Owning a wristwatch like this today means possessing a piece of that pioneering era of watchmaking – with all the technical charm of early 20th-century craft.
Design in the 1920s: Square Case and “Officer”-Style Lugs:
It features a square 18K gold case with officer-style lugs, a design that is both elegant and steeped in early wristwatch history. A square case in a watch dating to the World War I or immediate post-war era was quite avant-garde. For context, Audemars Piguet made one of the very first square wristwatches in 1918 (a 24mm piece for Bittmann, St. Moritz) – described as a “rare, early and fine” square watch at the end of WWI.
Our Poitevin piece follows this innovative trend. Its square profile would have set it apart from most timepieces of its day, foreshadowing the bold Art Deco geometry of the later 1920s. The use of 18K yellow gold for the case underlines the luxury pedigree, and subtle details like a likely snap-on back (for a slim profile) and a thin bezel give it a timeless, classic appearance.
Enhancing its character are the so-called “officer’s lugs.” Officer-style lugs refer to the strap attachment design reminiscent of military officers’ watches in the WWI era. Typically, these lugs are small gold bars or tubes attached to the case, with screws or cap ends securing a leather strap – essentially fixed bar lugs with a distinctive old-world look. This design was practical (providing a secure strap hold for early wristwatches) and has become an enduring aesthetic beloved by collectors.
They also add a vintage charm: when viewed from the side, officer lugs often have small rounded or pointed projections that immediately signal an early 20th-century design.
Why It Matters:
This watch embodies many qualities collectors value today:
Rarity: Poitevin wristwatches are virtually unknown; most surviving works are pocket watches.
Provenance: Signed by a Parisian master whose grand complications earned Geneva Observatory certification and won gold medals at international exhibitions.
Technical pedigree: Houses a movement shared with very early Audemars Piguet and Cartier wristwatches.
Originality: It has all its original parts and presents in pleasing condition
Independent heritage: Represents the work of a small-scale, high-skill atelier operating at the highest echelon of early 20th-century horology. In the hands of a modern independent like Voutilainen or Journe, a watch of this production philosophy could easily be priced in the six figures. This Poitevin offers the same independent spirit — and a direct link to the dawn of the wristwatch — at a small fraction of that cost.
One of our Master Watchmakers has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the movement, carefully inspecting each part, installing a correct new mainspring and crystal, tightening the cannon pinion, adjusting the balance, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (an $895 value).
We have also timed it on a machine that simulates it being worn on the wrist. It is keeping very accurate time.
For the finishing touch, it comes equipped with a new leather strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment.
Included with the purchase is a one-year international warranty on the movement and its function and a custom printed Certificate of Authenticity.
Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.
Detailed Appraisal:
Manufacturer: Bernard Poitevin
Country of origin: France and Switzerland
Case no.: 46,692
Year sold: 1920
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Designed for: Men
Case material: 18K gold
Case markings (inside): 46,692 and various hallmarks
Case condition: Two lugs have slightly bent over the years and could fairly easily be straightened. Otherwise, it presents in excellent condition with only light wear and only light signs of previous polishing.
Dimensions: 26mm diameter (excluding crown), 33.5mm long lug tip-to-tip
Dial: Gold with texturing, correctly unsigned, black painted Roman numerals with outer railroad minute track
Hands: Original, blued steel "Breguet moons"
Movement markings: B Pvin, #1
Movement type: Very high quality caliber HPVM finished by Bernard Poitevin's firm, manually wound, frosted gilt, straight-line lever escapement, index regulator
Band: Leather, stitched, padded, brand new and unworn
We also stock a variety of new straps in various prints, skins, colors, and price ranges. Please ask us if you're interested.
Width between lugs: 19mm
Crystal type: Mineral glass, original, excellent condition
Serviced: One of our Master Watchmakers has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the movement, carefully inspecting each part, installing a correct new mainspring and crystal, tightening the cannon pinion, adjusting the balance, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (an $895 value).
Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system. We have also timed it on a machine that simulates it being worn on the wrist. It is keeping very accurate time.
Warranty: 1-year international warranty. Please message us for details.
Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given special training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center and also has done authorized work for the Richemont brands including Cartier, Vacheron & Constantin, IWC, JLC and others.
Box/Papers: BOX - Watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
SKU 9180
- Creator:Bernard Poitevin
- Case Material:
- Strap Material:Leather
- Case Shape:Square
- Movement:
- Case Dimensions:Height: 1.32 in (33.5 mm)Width: 1.03 in (26 mm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1920
- Condition:18K gold, original, square, officer's style with screwed in bar lugs, two-body, polished, downward turned lugs, 26mm diameter (excluding crown), 33.5mm long lug tip-to-tip. Gold with texturing, correctly unsigned, black painted Roman numerals.
- Seller Location:Suwanee, GA
- Reference Number:Seller: 91801stDibs: LU4333227161322
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