Marina B Ken

No stranger to fanciful, bold jewelry designs, Marina Bulgari is the granddaughter of the founder of the legendary luxury house BVLGARI. In the 1970s, she established her own brand, Marina B, and her vibrantly colored, exclusive accessories were widely coveted by jewelry lovers of the 1980s. The same goes for the collectors of today. 

When her grandfather Sotirios passed away in 1932, Marina Bulgari’s father Constantino took over the iconic jewelry house alongside his brother Giorgio. Since she was a child, her passion for art and design was wholly enriched and broadened thanks to the historically celebrated family business that was growing in popularity around her. She studied at Saint Mary’s College in England and upon graduating began to contribute her own designs to BVLGARI. When her uncle Giorgio died in 1966, Marina began to help run the business. When her father passed away in 1973, she took his place at the luxury house and remained there for three more years before striking out on her own.

The first Marina B boutique opened in Geneva in 1978. In the years that followed, more locations were established in Milan, New York City and Paris. Marina’s brand embodied luxurious, easy-to-wear jewelry — for women, by women. Women of the era were newly independent, and the jewelry industry — its workshops, boutiques, and other areas of the business —  had long been led by men. Alongside Marina, the likes of Elsa Peretti, Angela Cummings and a range of others whose work is still being brought to light today would change that.   

Elizabeth Taylor — a dedicated enthusiast of BVLGARI’s dazzling eye candy and the sinuous snake motif that has come to be synonymous with the brand — was among the high-profile admirers of Marina B jewelry in its early days, and her accessories could frequently be seen as part of Taylor’s red carpet ensembles. Marina drew on Japanese and Byzantine traditions and created adornments that were stylized and graphic. Her work was fresh and innovative — for her Pneu collection, she created earrings that could be worn as either drop earrings or studs and in 1980, she unveiled a unique gem cut she called the Chestnut, which landed somewhere between a trilliant cut and a pear cut. This would become a signature of the brand.

Marina introduced other major collections such as the Shirine in 1984 as well as the Atomo and Cardan collections in 1989 before retiring during the 1990s. Ahmed Fitahihi, a Saudi Arabian sheik, bought the company in 1999 before it changed hands again in 2011 when it was acquired by the chief executive of Windsor Jewelers, Paul Lubetsky. In 2017,  Italian-born French jewelry designer Guy Bedarida — an alum of Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and a former creative director at John Hardy — took over as majority shareholder and creative director at the band. 

Hollywood starlets how found a lot to love about Marina’s designs over the years. In addition to Elizabeth Taylor, her work was worn by Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly. Marina B choker necklaces are popular among contemporary musicians like Rihanna who wore one at the opening ceremony of Rihanna Drive in Barbados and Alicia Keys, who donned a Marina B choker at her 2013 Superbowl performance. 

Find Marina B earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets on 1stDibs.

In the United States, ear piercing didn’t really become popular until the 1950s and ‘60s, but our desire for a dazzling pair of vintage earrings has deeper roots than that. In fact, wearing earrings actually goes back thousands of years, and you can find many tangible connections between now and then in how we continue to talk about these treasured accessories.

Women wore ornamental earrings — studs and hoops at the very least — in Ancient Egypt, which is home to mines that are among the earliest sources of emeralds in the world. Emerald earrings are highly prized today, and their quality lies in their rich, saturated color. The highest-quality emeralds are green or bluish-green. Earrings worn by the affluent in early Roman civilizations were set with precious stones such as diamonds and pearls, and a clean-looking pop of pearl on the front of the lobe is as timeless as ever. Hoop earrings are imbued with symbolism and cultural significance for many, and on view in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Ancient Near Eastern Art Gallery is a pair of simple gold hoops from Mesopotamia dating to between 2600 and 2500 B.C.

Today, ear piercing is very popular all over the world, and, as a result, it is difficult to overstate how much everyone pines for a good pair of earrings — modernist drop earrings, glamorous Victorian hoops, geometrically complex chandelier earrings, you name it. Sure, jewelry trends and the fashion darlings of social media come and go, but earrings have a staying power that seems impenetrable: The still-strong love affair between British royals and Cartier earrings is more than a century old, glossy 1970s hoops from legacy houses such as Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels remain the statement makers they’ve always been and although people have been stacking earrings for many moons, the allure of an expertly mismatched stack of charms and studs still feels fresh and new.

While there is no shortage of modern earring designs to choose from, the classics, like coral earrings, Art Deco–style earrings and diamond drop earrings are still heavy hitters. On 1stDibs, find a wide range of antique, new and vintage earrings today.