Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme 1980s

The avant-garde Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto has said, “dirty is good.” These three words capture the eccentric designer’s love of a dark and disheveled — yet dapper — look. A master tailor with a distinctive style, he creates everything from coats and jackets to day dresses and evening gowns.

Yamamoto was born to a World War II widow in 1943. By the time he was 26, he had a law degree from Keio University and a fashion degree from Bunka Fashion College. In 1969, he won two Japanese fashion awards — the Endo Award and the Soen Award — which included a round-trip ticket to Paris. 

It was in the French capital that Yamamoto realized the fashion world was changing. A casual aesthetic was replacing formal and classical sensibilities. He soon set up his first label — Y’s — and embarked upon designing heavy-duty sportswear.

Yamamoto launched women’s collections in 1977 in Tokyo, in 1981 in Paris and in 1982 in New York. Their pieces loosened the traditional female clothing silhouette in favor of shapes more typical of menswear: simple cuts, minimal details and generous proportions. In 1983, the New York Times wrote, “Yohji Yamamoto may stand barely five feet tall, but his effect on world fashion in the last two years has been enormous.”

In 1984, he made his first foray into men’s fashion under the Yohji Yamamoto label. In 1994, he was awarded the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Minister of Culture and, in 2002, he became the creative director of Adidas’s Y-3.

Yamamoto’s fashion has been the subject of exhibitions around the world, including “May I help you” in 2002 at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, “Correspondences” in 2005 at the Gallery of Modern Art in Florence, Italy, and “Painting and Weaving Opportunity” in 2017 at Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery. In 2017, he received the DFA Lifetime Achievement Award.

On 1stDibs, find vintage Yohji Yamamoto clothing, accessories, handbags and more.

Whether accompanying a simple black dress or a straightforward pantsuit, vintage and designer accessories add personality and can transform an outfit into a fashion statement. Accessorizing is a means of expressing oneself, from colorful hats to timeless handbags.

A finely made scarf can pack a punch on its own, but accompanying a variety of other clothing, it can fuse a look or offer a flash of color. The perfect shoes can enhance an outfit, and different types of shoes can even change how you feel. Heels can provide a feeling of empowerment and confidence, while loafers and flats can offer a comfortable vibe. Sandals can be casual or elegant, able to dress up or down a range of attire.

Purses and handbags have been around in various forms since the days of hunter-gatherers using pouches to carry food, tools and other items. Bag design evolved notably during the Middle Ages. The shoulder bags and other bags ferried on today’s shoulders continue to be utilitarian while serving as status symbols. Chic design and exceptional quality contribute to beautifully constructed statement purses.

Men and women have worn hats throughout history. While they started as simply protection from the sun, they evolved into stylish accessories. Vintage hats never go out of style and add an exciting detail to an ensemble. The first boutique established by legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats.

Sunglasses were popularized in the 1920s by Hollywood stars attempting to remain incognito in public. They endure as a fashion-forward accessory — a pair of vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses, for example, can top off a look in any season and emanate an air of sophistication.

From belts and neckties to cloche hats and berets, browse an extensive selection of vintage and designer accessories on 1stDibs to complement any wardrobe.