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Portrait of Sir Henry Wotton in a Black Doublet & Ruff, Fine & Rare Carved Frame

circa 1610-20

About the Item

A feature of this exquisitely rendered oil on panel portrait, presented by Titan FIne Art, is its remarkable seventeenth century carved auricular / Sunderland frame – a splendid and rare work of art in itself. The subject depicted is the poet and ambassador, and contemporary of Shakespeare, Sir Henry Wotton. Sir Henry was the most widely cultivated Englishman of his time and the period of Wotton's life covers the whole of what is known as the great age of Elizabethan literature, from the defeat of the Armada to the death of Shakespeare, and extends almost to the outbreak of the Civil Wars. A ripe classical scholar, an elegant Latinist, trained in Greek, he was an admirable linguist in modern languages as well. He corresponded with Bacon about natural philosophy, and was the friend of most of the learned men of that epoch, both at home and on the Continent; the first English collector of Italian pictures, he brought from Italy, where he lived many years, the refined taste in art and architecture, the varied culture of antiquity and the Renaissance. Famous in his own day as a ' wit and fine gentleman ', he deserves to be remembered as a noble example of that much maligned class, the 'Italianate' Englishmen - one who, with all his foreign culture, never lost the sincerity and old-fashioned piety of a 'plain Kentish man'. He yet may be counted as one of the great Elizabethans endowed with the gift of a letter-writer, which none of his more famous contemporaries possessed. Born on 30 March 1568, at Boughton or Bocton Hall, in the centre of the county of Kent, Sir Henry was a son of Thomas Wotton (1489-1551) and his second wife Eleanor Finch. At the time of his birth Bocton Hall had been the seat of the Wotton family for about one hundred and fifty years, his father Thomas being fourth in descent from Nicholas Wotton, Lord Mayor of London in the reign of Henry V. Once settled in this old house, and allying themselves by marriage with long-established Kentish families, the Wotton’s had prospered, and had risen to considerable positions in the service of the State. Among those honourable families of country gentlemen, which were one of the main sources of the greatness of Tudor England, the Wotton’s were distinguished by a peculiar honesty, old-fashioned piety, and simplicity of nature. In the time of the dissolution of the abbeys, and the plunder of the church lands, none of them grew rich, though high in the public service; they habitually declined, rather than sought, court honours and preferment. Sir Edward Wotton (1489-1551), Henry Wotton's grandfather, who was Treasurer of Calais in 1540, and one of the executors of Henry VIII, was said to have refused, out of modesty, the office of Lord Chancellor offered him by that King. In 1584 Wotton, then aged sixteen, went from Winchester to New College, Oxford but by 1589 he left for abroad travelling on the continent. Foreign travel was almost a necessary part of the education of an ambitious youth in the reign of Queen Elizabeth and for the young Englishmen the main object of travel was almost always political. So important for political purposes was foreign travel considered, that Queen Elizabeth was constantly sending young men abroad at her own expense. These young travellers needed to obtain a licence and were restricted to certain countries, and to certain periods of time. When he returned to England in 1594, he was taken, almost immediately, into the service of the Queen's favourite, Robert, Earl of Essex. There he again went to Italy, where he obtained the confidence of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who employed him as a private envoy to James VI of Scotland, and when that king succeeded to the English throne, he was sent as his ambassador to many princes. He later was the Provostship of Eton, which he held till his death in 1689. Exquisitely detailed throughout the sitter is wearing a black doublet and white lace collar and cuffs. These elements are very carefully observed but the excellent treatment of the face is most notable - with the build-up and layering of colours to mimic realistic nuances of skin tones, and the soft appearance achieved by using the ‘sfumato’ technique. This is a very fine example of painting in England from the first quarter of the seventeenth century. This portrait passed by family descent to Anne Eliza Bray (1790-1883). Between 1826 and 1874 she wrote over a dozen very popular historical novels, travel and history books, as well as articles for 'The Gentleman's Magazine' and 'Blackwood's Magazine'; she also published her famous correspondence with Southey. She was first married to the artist Charles Alfred Stothard, the son of Thomas Stothard, and after he was killed in an accident, completed his book 'The Monumental Effigies of Great Britain'. She married secondly the Rev. Edward Atkyns Bray, vicar of Tavistock. It is no doubt that she would have been enthralled to be the custodian of a portrait Sir Henry Wotton, with his miraculous skill of writing, too. Cornelius Johnson (1593-1664) through merit and splendid achievement, can be placed within the first rank of England’s portrait painters of the generation before Van Dyke. Cornelius Johnson was a painter beautifully sensitive to individual character and his careful and faithful depictions of clothing afford a priceless resource to historians – he was the first British-born portrait painter (born in London) to regularly sign and date his work. His precise, meticulous, and dignified portraits perfectly reflect the spirit of the arts in England at the time. So great a painter, he was sworn in as the King’s own painter in 1632. His work is found in most pubic collections in Britain and in many private collections – seen on the walls in many British country houses, in the possession of descendants of the original sitters. Johnson was born into a Flemish/German immigrant family in 1593 in London. He is thought to have begun his independent practice in London, in about 1619. Where he trained it is not fully known as records are scant, but it is thought to be in Amsterdam. In addition, he may also have received some training in the London studio of Marcus Gheeraerts II (1561/2-1636), who was the official portraitist of James I’s queen, Anne of Denmark. As a result, even Johnson’s earliest pictures display a level of continental sophistication not often seen in the works of English Jacobean artists. And in a society that relished ‘conspicuous consumption’, and thus the display of expensive costumes, Johnson’s Dutch realism and sense of likeness proved popular. He became extremely prolific and he painted elegant images of the King, the Queen, and the whole court, many leading lawyers and public servants, but also a regional clientele away from the court primarily in Kent. In 1632, the same year Van Dyck arrived in England, Johnson was appointed one of King Charles I’s painters. In late 1634 Johnson is recorded to have been living in London. By some accounts, Johnson moved to Kent around 1636 but this is not known for certain. What is certain is that from about the early 1630s onwards his clients included many sitters from a group of families living around Canterbury, Kent. In 1643, just prior to the outbreak of the Civil Wars in Britain, Johnson and his family left for Holland where he worked in more than one city and was leading portrait painter in Utrecht, where he remained until his death. His only surviving son, called Cornelius, was born in London in 1634. He too was a painter and assisted his father. It has also been suggested that this portrait could represent Sir Henry’s brother Sir James Wotton who was knighted at Cadiz in 1596 and died in 1628. Measurements: Height 95cm, Width 82cm, Depth 9cm framed (Height 37.5”, Width 32.25”, Depth 3.5” framed)
  • Creation Year:
    circa 1610-20
  • Dimensions:
    Height: 37.41 in (95 cm)Width: 32.29 in (82 cm)Depth: 3.55 in (9 cm)
  • Medium:
  • Movement & Style:
  • Circle Of:
    Cornelius Johnson (1593 - 1661, British)
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    The condition is very good and can be hung and enjoyed immediately. The painting has passed a strict condition assessment by a professional conservator prior to going on sale.
  • Gallery Location:
    London, GB
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU1199116174562

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Portrait of a Lady in an Elaborate Ruff & Lace Coif c.1610-20, Dutch Old Master
Located in London, GB
This magnificent oil on panel portrait, presented by Titan Fine Art, is a splendid example of the sumptuous female portraits that were painted for members of the upper echelons of society during the early part of the 1600’s. The artist has rendered this portrait with meticulous attention to detail and the surface effects of the fine materials. The elaborate lace coif and cuffs are painstakingly delineated, as is the bold black damask, and sumptuous gold decoration of her skirt and stomacher, which is wonderfully preserved and quite remarkable considering the age of the work and the fact that darker pigments are particularly vulnerable to fading and wear. This work with its spectacular depiction of costume is of absolute quality, it can be rated as one of the best works in the artist’s oeuvre and as such it is an important and splendid example of Dutch portraiture. The Dutch Golden Age of painting was a period in Dutch history, roughly spanning the 17th century, in which Dutch trade, science, military, and art were among the most acclaimed in the world. Dutch explorers charted new territory and settled abroad. Trade by the Dutch East-India Company thrived, and war heroes from the naval battles were decorated and became national heroes. During this time, The Dutch Old Masters began to prevail in the art world, creating a depth of realistic portraits of people and life in the area that has hardly been surpassed. The Golden Age painters depicted the scenes that their discerning new middleclass patrons wanted to see. This new wealth from merchant activities and exploration combined with a lack of church patronage, shifted art subjects away from biblical genres. Dress was a key component in portraits, and the exuberant attire reiterates the incredible wealth of this woman. The sitter will have visited the artist’s workshop and inspected examples on display. They would have chosen the size and the sort of composition and on that basis negotiated the price – which would have also been determined by the complexity of the clothing and the jewels that were to be depicted, and by the materials to be used. When all was considered, this portrait would have cost the sitter (or her husband) a substantial sum. The colour black was regarded as humble and devout yet at the same time refined and sophisticated and the most expensive colour of fabric to dye and to maintain. Citizens spent fortunes on beautiful black robes. Such uniformity must also have had a psychological side-effect and contributed to a sense of middle-class cohesion; the collective black of the well-to-do burgess class will have given its members a sense of solidarity. The colour was always an exciting one for artists and when this portrait was painted there were at least fifty shades of it, and as many different fabrics and accoutrements. Artists went to great lengths to depict the subtle nuances of the colour and the fabrics and textures and how they reflected light and it was an ideal background against which gold and crisp white lace could be juxtaposed to dramatic effect. The sitter is either a married women or a widower as is evident by the clothing that she wears and the position, toward her right, it is highly likely that this portrait was once a pendant that hung on the right-hand side of her husband’s portrait as was convention at the time. She wears a vlieger which was a type of sleeveless over-gown or cape worn by well-to-do married women in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Variations with short sleeves or high shoulder rolls are known. Sometimes sleeves were attached with aiglets, and often slits were made to allow belts or the hands to pass through. Three-piece vlieger costumes of this kind were standard items of clothing in portraits of the women of the civic elite in the period 1600-40 and was a variant of the Spanish ‘ropa’ and served as a trademark of well-to-do married burgher women. Girls and unmarried woman, including beguines, wore a bouwen (a dress with a fitted bodice and a skirt that was closed all round) instead. This clear distinction between apparel for married and unmarried women is clear not only from inventories and trousseau lists, but also from contemporary sources such as the Dutch Spanish dictionary published by Juan Rodrigues in 1634. In it, a bouwen is described as a ‘ropa de donzella’ (over-gown worn by a virgin) and a vlieger as a ‘ropa de casada’ (overgown worn by a married woman). It is striking how few women are depicted wearing a bouwen, unless they are part of a group, family or children’s portrait and it can therefore be assumed that independent portraits of unmarried women were seldom commissioned. It is also believed that the clothing worn in these portraits existed and were faithfully reproduced when cross-referenced with the few exact documents. These sources also demonstrate that clients wanted their clothing to be depicted accurately and with this in mind precious garments and jewels were often left in the painter’s studio. The prominent white lawn molensteenkraag (or millstone ruff) is held up by a wire supportasse and was reserved only for the citizens that could afford this luxurious item that often required 15 meters of linen batiste. The fabulous wealth of this sitter is also evident by the elaborate lace coif and cuffs which have been exquisitely depicted; lace was often literally copied by artists in thin white lines over the completed clothing. The gold bracelet with jewels is a type that was evidently fashionable as it is seen in a number of portraits during the 1610s and 1620. Clothing and jewellery were prized possessions and were often listed in inventories of estates and passed down from generation to generation. There were a great number of jewellers of Flemish origin working at all the courts and cities of Europe, competing with the Italians, and then the French, adapting themselves to the tastes and positions of their patrons and the raw materials available in the country where they worked. The fashion for jewels “in the Flemish style” succeeded that of the Italian style. Cornelis van der Voort, who was probably born in Antwerp around 1576, came to Amsterdam with his parents as a child. 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