Unset Opal

Opals were discovered in 400 BC, and since then five types have been found throughout the world. Before you start shopping for mysteriously beautiful vintage opal rings and other opal jewelry, learn about the different varieties of the gem — and find out which historical figure was reportedly willing to trade his kingdom for a single stone.

Here is a little riddle for you: the month of October has two birthstones, but only one of them encompasses the colors of other birthstones. If you guessed opal, you’re right! (The other gemstone associated with the month of October is tourmaline.)

Opals are such unusual gemstones that there are too many old-wives tales associated with them, like if you’re a blond, wearing an opal necklace will protect your locks from losing color. Opals were also very fashionable in the early 19th century, up until the publication of Sir Walter Scott’s novel Anne of Geierstein in 1829. The title heroine wears an opal and succumbs to an untimely death. However, the British monarchy, and in particular Queen Victoria, did not let this story get in their way, and they frequently gifted opals to friends and family members. October babies should disregard the noise and proudly wear their opals!

There are five types of precious opals: boulder opal, fire opal, crystal/water opal, black opal, and white/light opal. Each variety is distinguished by its color.

So, where does the name come from? The word opal is thought to originate from the Roman opalus or from the Sanskrit úpala (“precious stone”) or from the Greek opallios (“to see a color change”). So while there have been many names for the stones, opals were first discovered in 400 BC in Ethiopia. But the early reference that comes up most often in history books is from the Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder, who wrote about it in 75 AD. In his text he refers to it as opali. The Romans were big fans of opal, Mark Antony was so enamored by it that, as the story goes, he was willing to trade a portion of his kingdom for a single opal.

There's a wide variety of antique and vintage opal jewelry on 1stDibs (and you won't have to trade your kingdom for it).

Are you shopping for diamonds and other loose gemstones to create your own custom jewelry? 

Why might you purchase a diamond or gemstone “loose” — that is, on its own, not mounted in a piece of jewelry? Perhaps you’re a connoisseur looking to acquire a unique investment. The scarcity of high-quality colored diamonds, for instance, especially pink diamonds, means that their value increases over time; the same is true of rare Kashmir sapphires and Burmese rubies. Far rarer than diamonds, Paraiba tourmaline, discovered only in the 1980s, is treasured as much for its extraordinary color as its scarcity, both of which contribute to its high value.

A more common scenario would be that you’re hoping to create a very special piece of custom jewelry, such as an engagement ring or a milestone-birthday present, and want to personally select the most beautiful, unusual, or ultra-rare stone you can find and afford. Doing so adds to the romance and substance of the gift and can be a part of the story told as the jewel is passed from generation to generation.

If this sounds like you, read on for tips on becoming one of the world’s savviest gem hunters.

Educate yourself: When buying any piece of gem-set fine jewelry, you should familiarize yourself with the factors that determine a stone’s price. This will enable you to streamline your search for the perfect gem and have intelligent, productive conversations with sellers.

There is a wealth of information online, such as our diamond-buying guide and this overview of colored gemstones for engagement rings. The buying guides of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), searchable by stone type, are also a widely trusted source for consumers venturing into the world of diamonds and gems for the first time.

Vet your vendor: If you peruse 1stDibs with any regularity, you know there is no shortage of vendors who deal in top-quality loose gemstones. (Read about our vetted sellers.) Finding a trustworthy, established dealer may be as easy as getting a recommendation from friends or family. And, although it may sound obvious, it pays to Google your candidates — and consult customer reviews — before making contact.

Harakh Mehta, designer and founder of the Mumbai, India–based fine-jewelry brand Harakh, has an innate understanding of proper client relations, especially when the customer is in unfamiliar territory. “Start chatting with the dealer, get to know them better," he says. "It’s very important to establish a comfort level. We never push a sale, as we want it to be a carefully considered purchase. So, if the client is not in a rush, we do it over a few virtual meetings or phone calls.”

Request documentation: The best dealers go to great lengths to furnish clients with documents verifying the quality rating, natural origin and provenance of a stone — showing, for example, that loose emerald hails from the famous Muzo mine in Colombia — and disclosing any treatments applied to enhance its appearance. (And who doesn't love emerald jewelry? The most valuable emeralds are the ones that have a deep bluish-green to true green color and no visible inclusions.)

If no grading report is available for a stone you are interested in, the dealer should be able to provide an authenticity document, such as an appraisal or info sheet, that has been signed by an in-house gemologist or professional appraiser. Google those names, too, for extra peace of mind.

Ask for videos and visuals: When transacting with a gem dealer online, you should always request real-time videos and photographs, since professional photos of a stone, usually on a white background, have likely been retouched for optimal presentation.

Read more about how to buy loose gemstones and find your dream gems today on 1stDibs.