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Couture Antique Tuxedo Wool Ribbed&QuiltedSatin Lined&Padded Black Tailcoat

$4,605
£3,542.47
€4,111.80
CA$6,494.15
A$7,274.54
CHF 3,820.85
MX$88,456.06
NOK 48,384.45
SEK 45,929.85
DKK 30,687.98

About the Item

This antique ArtDeco-period couture British wool-and-satin black tuxedo button-decorated open-breasted tailcoat fits a women's U.S.-size 6 so well that we think it was custom made for one. A hidden printed label identifies the craftsman as Harry Kay at Windsor Place, which remains one of the most sought after professional locations in the heart of Cardiff, the capital of Wales. Amusingly, it includes the very early phone number of only four digits for his bespoke business, which was the standardized local dial-up during the 1920s in at least the United States. The tag's additional handwritten information identifies his client in script as R. Robins or Robinson followed by an abbreviation of two letters possibly Sr, along with the illegible date from the early 1900s that may be the month of May given the minimal letters and possibly 1929 or 1933. Between those years, formal menswear for women was internationally popularized by movie actress Marlene Dietrich (see our photo of her in top hat and white-tie tux), jazz-associated entertainer Josephine Baker, and couture-fashion designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. This coat has fine tailoring on the ribbed satin notched lapels, angled breast pocket, and button-accented draped tails and split sleeves. The tails each have an additional hidden pocket, which both function like the side pockets of pants. More so, there is a piped deep pocket on the interior of each ribbed satin breast. The entire back of the lined torso is intricately quilted to conceal the multiple curvilinear seams that contour the waist and shoulders with likely horsehair padding, which also add a curve to the upper back. At the interior neck, a satin thick loop enables it to be temporarily hung on a hook. For someone who appreciates small signs of old age like minimal insect damage (see several holes in the area of the sleeves buttons), this tailcoat in excellent structural condition is suitable for either formal or casual wear--especially for outdoor use given its warmth with thick striped-satin lined sleeves. The clearly antique jacket could have been among the clothes currently exhibited by TheMet museum in "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion", which is likely to inspire contemporary designers to add elements resembling such couture to their clothes in new ways, such as John Galliano artfully did this year for his mind-blowing couture collection for Maison Margiela. In comparison to some of the modern and contemporary designers best known for tuxedo jackets, such as Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford, we think this coat has superior construction to last another century if better protected from moths by the buyer. The wrinkles on the satin lining of the tails should disappear when steamed. We do not recommend dry cleaning while the tux currently has no stains or odor. This was acquired by its contemporary collector over 30 years ago from a former London antique-textile boutique.
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: 6 (US)
  • Style:
    Art Deco, sleeping beauty (Of the Period)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. This antique tux tailcoat is in remarkably good condition. The only hard-to-see signs of age is from moths, which is partly masked by the sleeve buttons, while a dark hole on the back left collar can be concealed if desired by long hair or a scarf.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220660922

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