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A Rare Couture Emile Pingat Dolman Pelisse - France Circa 1890-1895
About the Item
Circa 1890-1895
France Paris
Dolman or Pelisse for the evening in wool felt eau du Nil with small Médicis collar, signed Emile Pingat, 30 Rue Louis le Grand Paris. The collar is made of cream curly Mongolian lamb fur (?). From the collar and shoulders, an eloquent Neo-Gothic ornament in Prussian blue velvet is applied with a rich trimming of tassels, drops and braids of gold thread underlined by fringes in blue silk chenille. Quilted lining in damask satin with lily of the valley design. Provenance Gilles Labrosse Collection. A few chips in the fringes, the lining consolidated at the level of the claw, only defects to be noted, the rest being in very good condition of colour and conservation. Exhibited and catalogued at the Villa Rosemaine in 2021.
Dimensions: Equivalent size 38/40 France. Height 124 cm, shoulders 45 cm, bottom amplitude 240 cm.
Emile Pingat (1820/1901), like his illustrious peers Charles-Frederick Worth, Jeanne Paquin or Jacques Doucet, is one of the greatest Parisian couturiers of the second half of the 19th century. One of the founders of haute couture, the couturier is distinguished by his subtle use of ornamentation and unusual contrasts linked to a perfect harmony of proportions. The creation of his famous evening coats, dolmans or pelisses made him famous from 1880 onwards, as he perfectly embodied the silhouette of the Belle Epoque. The fashion house opened its salon in 1864 but was sold prematurely in 1896 to Wallès & Cie. Little is known about this illustrious couturier whose life is shrouded in a certain mystery. Emile Pingat died in oblivion probably in 1901. There are few pieces of Emile Pingat in French collections, especially in relation to his short career.
Similar references: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, MET 2009.300.337 and 2009.300.141.
Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.38
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