A Challis and Taffeta Bustle Cage Fashion Dress - France circa 1880

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About the Item

Circa 1875-1880 France Troisième République Period A bustle cage dress and peplum over dress in Eau du Nil challis and lustrous pink taffeta silk. Historicist inspiration of the Louis XIII style by the small puffed sleeves and the berthe collar of the dress. As well as of the Louis XV style by the peplum overdress with a polonaise retroussé effect and its large basques judiciously superimposed. Generous work of ruched appliqué ruffles with hems made by sewing machine. Piping braids, knots, and flat pleats work in a contrast effect between the shiny taffeta and the matt challis. A few moth holes, a small hole and a halo located on the front skirt and the waist belt (not visible because covered by the overskirt). Very good condition of color and conservation Dimensions : Presented on mannequin size 32/34. Small size. Height 122 cm Shoulders 37 cm Collar 3 cm Sleeves 46 cm Chest 80 cm Waist 62 cm When around 1868, the Princess of Metternick was first seen in a Worth dress known as the Peplum withouh crinoline, the muse of the imperial salons of the Second Empire, she set the tone for a simplification of the silhouette towards a fashion less marked of etiquette. In the same way, the princess line launched at the same period, a draped dress without seams at the waist between the bodice and the skirt, designed a fashion suitable for ceremonies as well as for city or walking ensembles: dresses with a system that allows the skirt to be raised by a system of inner cords also facilitate walking and the progressive development of women's sports. Between 1870 and 1890, the old crinoline cages underwent several morphological evolutions: from the half whale cage in the shape of a pouff or a false butt, to the bustle cage, the most extravagant model of which was the folding chair with articulated cushion, the female silhouette only became lighter very gradually. The upholstery style is still very much in vogue, with its drapes, braids and pleats, but is superimposed in several pieces of clothing: paletots, corselets with straps, boleros, visits and removable overskirts with aprons or à la polonaise can also be used unmatched. Novelty stores specialize in these multi-purpose sets, which, as featured items in the tailoring departments, would take on the name of “suit” after 1880. If novelty stores, which had become department stores, took on a new dimension in the metropolises, with the Louvre and Bon Marché stores as prototypes, the 1870s saw a rise in the sale of mail-order clothing models, supported by a French silk industry that was experiencing unprecedented technological progress in the fields of chemistry and the mechanisation of complex weaves. It was in 1882 that Charles Frédérick Worth proposed patterns for his à la polonaise dresses in advertising in The Ladies' Treasury 1, a dress with an over-skirt and fabric rolled up at the bottom of the back, a variation of the bustle that could be reproduced by wise seamstresses. Several designer houses publish sample books of high novelty fabrics for fashion, accompanied by fashion engravings judiciously presenting the different combinations of the samples. Among others, we can mention the Rodier designer house (1853-1962), the Tabourier designer house (1850-1914) which won a prize at the 1889 Universal Exhibition in Paris 2, and in a luxurious register the Tassinari & Chatel designer house in Lyon.

Dimensions:
Marked Size: Presented on mannequin size 32 (EU)
Style:
1875/1880 (Of the Period)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1870-1879
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Good Condition and Color.
Seller Location:
Toulon, FR
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU63339856332

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