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1990s Belgian 1stCollection Branquinho Iconic ChevronPleat TullePetticoat Skirt

About the Item

For the first eponymous-brand debut in Paris by Belgium-born Veronique Branquinho for her Spring/Summer 1998 collection with couture details, the former Flemish-trained fashion designer presented this rare topstitched iconic chevron-pleated A-line-silhouette midi skirt with a voluminous tulle petticoat. She continued to rework this distinct angled-pleating style throughout her initial collections until 2008, when Antwerp's fashion museum MoMu gave her a retrospective titled "Moi, Veronique Branquino, Toute Nue". Due to the overwhelming production pressures of becoming a luxury brand like her mutually progressive peers from Belgium Martin Margiela and Raf Simons, she subsequently abandoned seasonal clothing collections for several years to concentrate on her shoe brand, teaching fashion, and beginning to design for less demanding businesses. Whereafter in 2012, she returned to producing consecutive collections for her clothing line for five years. Notably, after her first professionally-photographed runway fashion show in Paris for her Fall/Winter 1998 collection (the same year that she produced this skirt), she won the VH1 Fashion Award for Best New Designer as a favorite of stylish rock-stars. In her signature mostly black-and-white palette, Branquinho used a Prince-of-Wales woven wool as the lightweight overlay for this skirt. Its flared fullness relies on the many layers of attached cotton-lined wavy black net hidden below that create a unique ripple effect on the shadowy overlay. The thin red lines in the plaid add a warm tone to the fabric, which give the impression from a distance that the skirt is grey. In back, where there is only one vertical pleat in the center, the skirt has zip closure with hook-and-eye fastening, which is covered at the waist with a fabric band that fastens with concealed double snaps like a half-belt. With its 26-inch waistband, the European-size 36 will suit a U.S.-size 4-6, or a larger size with a slim torso. We were thrilled to obtain this important piece of 1990s fashion history, especially from the designer who was hailed a decade later by MoMu curators as "the Coco Chanel of the 21st Century". We encourage you to also consider another of our listings acquired from the same London-based collector that we thought was designed by Branquinho, but which is an antique black chiffon and ivory lace blouse from the Edwardian period that flares below its bow-tied high waist. As if it was part of a Branquinho runway look, it pairs great with this skirt!
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Length: 25 in (63.5 cm)Marked Size: 36 (EU)Waist: 26 in (66.04 cm)
  • Style:
    1990s (Of the Period)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220561262

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