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Antique GiltSilverFiligree FauxEmeraldChrysoberylPearl Gold Link&Chain Bracelet

$4,700
£3,568.16
€4,081.21
CA$6,566.58
A$7,303.47
CHF 3,813.65
MX$88,875.49
NOK 48,706.08
SEK 45,677.71
DKK 30,459.66
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About the Item

Possibly as old as the 1800s or a later Baroque-revival imperceptible reproduction, this antique handcrafted gold gilt-silver vermeil filigree-frame textured-chain link bracelet likely originated in the European region of Austria-Hungary-Germany. We partly base this on its brilliant blue-green glass jewels in the rare trace-mineral saturated color of authentic alkaline Columbian emeralds. Including a decorative box-clasp, the ornate bracelet also features 14 prong-set round white pearls mostly mounted on the open-work filigree and 6 marquise-cut vanadium chrysoberyl mounted on both sides of the three linked frames. Along with the shifting shadows of the partly reflective filigree, the refracted light cast sideways by the paler lime-green beryl through the emerald-cut and scissor-cut vivid-glass jewels make those three transparent larger ones appear to have natural inclusions. The ingenious optics that alter color-saturation in different light make them look like exceptional real Columbian emeralds. The bracelet is structured at its center with a convex framework of three rectangles entirely composed of tightly curled filigree leaves soldered together. The top and bottom of each of the largest jewels are caged with sets of openwork leaves. The frames are linked by two soldered single-tube hinges attached to both sides of the central frame. The high relief of the uppermost decoration serves to protect the stones from being scratched, while there is only microscopic evidence of it. The rest of the bracelet is linked via ribbed chains whose ends are attached to perforated plates soldered to the outermost side of the two smaller frames, as well as to the box-clasp or its tongue. The bracelet closes with a tongue-fastening box adorned with a square-cut green-glass jewel, which is cornered by prong-set tiny pearls. The clasp-underside, which cannot be seen when worn, has minor gilt loss that reveals the silver base at its insertion edge. This hidden damage was likely intentional to test the gold, which appears to be 18-karat gilding. There are no markings to indicate country of origin or metal fineness.
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    50 g
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)Depth: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)Diameter: 2.5 in (63.5 mm)Length: 6.5 in (165.1 mm)
  • Style:
    Holbeinesque
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1860-1973
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218611332

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