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Miriam Haskell 1930 Fringe Glass & BrassBar Pendants ChainLink Art Deco Necklace

$1,200
£913.93
€1,053.44
CA$1,678.79
A$1,886.85
CHF 982.62
MX$22,948.78
NOK 12,573.86
SEK 11,923.72
DKK 7,862.17
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About the Item

Featuring a relatively heavy fringe of dangling Russian-gilt brass bars and contrasting French-blue textural hand-pressed glass beads topped with filigree caps to resemble flower buds, this c.1930 brass round-link chain necklace was made in an Art Deco two-tone style by Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess, who favored floral motifs. Assembled in The States, it dates to The Great Depression as early as 1929 when Haskell temporarily substituted her characteristic imported Parisian lampwork-glass and handcrafted faux-pearl beads since opening her first French-named ready-to-wear costume-jewelry boutique in 1926 for less expensive materials likely sourced from Czechoslovakia instead of France. The unsigned necklace fastens with a spring-ring clasp that Haskell sometimes used during this period, in addition to simple thumbless ones that are also found in pieces by some Czech makers. While no Haskell costume jewelry was marked prior to 1947, during his decades as head designer for Miriam Haskell, Hess continued to make variations of his earlier pieces, such as this bar-fringe style that we have found in later signed necklaces and bracelets that comparatively had baroque faux-pearls attached as end beads.

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Around 1930, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess designed this Russian-gilt brass ribbed-chain link bib necklace featuring 27 strands of varying length each wired to aqua faux-turquoise pressed glass beads with characteristic gold pronged-bell caps and thumbless spring-ring clasp. After the Great Depression began in the United States in 1929, to keep her popular European-style costume jewelry affordable among fashionable ladies, Haskell began using less expensive imported handcrafted glass beads, which included Czech and German pressed glass. Initially when she opened her handmade ready-to-wear costume-jewelry business in 1926 in New York City's downtown McAlpin Hotel, she had used only the finest Parisian glass beads and findings like French couturiers including Coco Chanel who soon became her competition. which Haskell promoted with the French name of her first boutique Le Bijou de L'Heure. If interested in assembling a suitable set of early Haskell-Hess pieces with similar aesthetics, please see our other listings for the aqua glass-and-enamel scalloped button clip earrings and the "peacock" coil arm-band bracelet with Parisian lampworked glass, faceted crystal, painted galalith beads, and cupped rose...
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