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Art Deco Diamond Halo with Paste Aquamarine Cocktail Ring - 18K Gold & Platinum

Art Deco Diamond Halo with Paste Aquamarine Cocktail Ring - 18K Gold & Platinum

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Art Deco Diamond Halo with Paste Aquamarine Cocktail Ring - 18K Gold & Platinum

About the Item

Dating to the late Edwardian to Art Deco period, this sizable and elegant diamond halo ring reflects the glamour of the period. Interestingly, the large center stone is paste (glass) rather than the aquamarine it resembles. Initially I was going to remove the center glass stone and replace it with a custom cut natural gemstone, but I decided to first offer the ring in its original form in case it speaks to someone just as it is. (or perhaps you may decide to choose a stone to have custom set yourself.) Crafted of yellow gold testing as 18K with platinum topped settings, the ring features 20 sparkly old cut diamonds of varying chunky cuts creating a halo around the large, faceted oval aquamarine-colored cut glass paste. Pretty openwork of a foliate design decorates the gallery of the ring, with platinum topped raised shoulders. If the glass stone were actually aquamarine, I would expect it to weigh approximately 5.14 carats. Measuring approximately 15 x 10.5 mm, the bezel-set glass paste centerpiece has a lovely, delicate icy blue color and a wonderful chunky old cut. Despite the wear it has, it catches the light beautifully and is very lively. (it really does look like an aquamarine) A little wear can be seen with the naked eye, but I see more of it under magnification. There is rubbing to the facet junctions around and near the table, as well as some scratching. (the wear is easiest to see in the photos with the dark background) It looks quite good to the naked eye, as it blends in somewhat with the color of the stone. This does appear to be the original center to the ring; the bezel remains in fine condition with delicate milgrain edging. As noted above, if the paste was a genuine aquamarine, it would be estimated to weigh over 5 carats - so, it's quite a good size. Many of the old cut diamonds in the halo surround are old mine cut, but I see a few other types of old diamonds, as well, including two table cut diamonds. Most are cushiony but some are more round in shape. They have nice sparkle and lots of character, though tend to be on the rustic side as far as cut and clarity. (I'm also still trying to get them truly clean as the piece was found very dirty) They vary a bit in size, too, with most averaging approximately 2.5 x 2.5 - 2.2 x 2.2, with some closer to 2.8 mm. (it's likely that some diamonds have been replaced over time) I estimate the total diamond carat weight to be in the neighborhood of 1.00 carat. I see a bit of wear under magnification and one diamond has a chip. The milgrain edging remains in very good condition, but I do see some expected wear to the bead settings, which I would keep an eye on, and re-tip as needed. With a dramatic presence on the hand, the face of the ring measures approximately 25.3 x 20.6 mm; the rise off the finger is approximately 7.4 mm. On my scale, the finished weight is 7.82 grams. The band remains in good strong condition with no hallmarks remaining inside - though I think I see some faint traces under magnification. Size 8 on my sizing mandrel, it fits me more generously - around an 8.5, and may be sized up or down within reason by a good jeweler.

Ring Size:
8 US, Resizable
Metal:
Platinum,18k Gold
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Old Mine Cut
Weight:
7.82 g
Style:
Art Deco
Place of Origin:
Unknown
Period:
20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1918 to 1920s
Condition:
Replacements made: The old cut diamonds composing the halo show some mixed cuts, with some likely being old replacements. Wear consistent with age and use. The central Aquamarine colored paste (glass) stone shows some rubbing and superficial wear/scratches.
Seller Location:
Danvers, MA
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3614220588622

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