Rhoda Wager

The Arts and Crafts movement that emerged in England in the late 19th century saw a dehumanization of design in the rise of industrialization and mass production of objects. Its practitioners prized craftsmanship and a close connection between the artisan and the entire process of what they were making. This included the design of Arts and Crafts jewelry and watches, which evolved as the movement spread to the United States in the early 20th century.

While much of the Arts and Crafts furniture realm was dominated by male designers like William Morris and Gustav Stickley, several women came to prominence in Arts and Crafts jewelry design, including British metalworker Charlotte Newman and American enamelist and metalsmith Elizabeth Copeland. Many creators were part of guilds, encouraging an exchange of ideas, with some focused on jewelry, like England’s Guild and School of Handicraft — founded by Charles Robert Ashbee — and Birmingham Guild of Handicraft.

In contrast to the Victorian era, with its decadent gemstones and heavy mourning jewelry, designers of Arts and Crafts jewelry looked to the past and abroad for inspiration, from simple medieval shapes to East Asian styles. The movement’s emphasis on natural forms overlapped with Art Nouveau. Flourishes like leaves and flowers formed from silver, aluminum and copper can be found in bracelets and necklaces designed in this style, while rings and earrings are adorned with affordable gems such as turquoise and freshwater pearls.

Arts and Crafts jewelry designers used materials that were often simple, such as semiprecious stones and enamel, which is one of the oldest forms of surface decoration. Artisans prioritized the use of artistic techniques to elevate the jewelry rather than expensive components, and every piece was intended to be one of a kind — a work of wearable art.

Find antique Arts and Crafts jewelry boxes and a collection of Arts and Crafts jewelry on 1stDibs.

Antique and vintage brooches, which are decorative jewels traditionally pinned to garments and used to fasten pieces of clothing together where needed, have seen increasing popularity in recent years.

Given their long history, brooches have expectedly taken on a variety of different shapes and forms over time, with jewelers turning to assorted methods of ornamentation for these accessories, including enameling and the integration of pearls and gemstones.

Cameo brooches that originated during the Victorian age are characterized by a shell carved in raised relief that feature portraits of a woman’s profile, while 19th-century micromosaic brooches, comprising innumerable individually placed glass fragments, sometimes feature miniature depictions of a pastoral scene in daily Roman life.

At one time, brooches were symbols of wealth, made primarily from the finest metals and showcasing exquisite precious gemstones. Today, these jewels are inclusive and universal, and you don’t have to travel very far to find an admirer of brooches. They can be richly geometric in form, such as the ornate diamond pins dating from the Art Deco era, or designer-specific, such as the celebrated naturalistic works created by Tiffany & Co., the milk glass and gold confections crafted by Trifari or handmade vintage Chanel brooches of silk or laminated sheer fabric.

Brooches are versatile and adaptable. These decorative accessories can be worn in your hair, on hats, scarves and on the lower point of V-neck clothing. Pin a dazzling brooch to the lapel of your blazer-and-tee combo or add a cluster of smaller pins to your overcoat. And while brooches have their place in “mourning jewelry,” in that a mourning brooch is representative of your connection to a lost loved one, they’re widely seen as romantic and symbolic of love, so much so that a hardcore brooch enthusiast might advocate for brooches to be worn over the heart.

Today, find a wide variety of antique and vintage brooches on 1stDibs, including gold brooches, sapphire brooches and more.