Kurt Markus

Kirsten Owen, VOGUE Paris, Los Angeles

1989

Like the cowboys who were often the focus of his work, Kurt Markus’s photographs are imbued with a quiet strength. The acclaimed contemporary American lensman was universally known for his poignant black and white images, each one an intimate glimpse into the lives of their subjects.

Markus was born in 1947 in Whitefish, which is in rural Montana. Though his early childhood was spent outside, he knew that he didn't want to be a rancher. He attended the United States military academy West Point and served in the Army Rangers, but he realized the military was also not for him. Instead, he taught himself photography and fell in love with the craft.

Markus is best known for his moving photography of American cowboys. One of his books of cowboy photography, Cowpuncher, was named the best art book of the year by the National Cowboy Hall of Fame in 2002. Markus also trained his lens on the sport of boxing, photographing world champions like Mike Tyson in addition to lesser-known competitors all around the world, from Havana to Dublin. 

Markus was a successful and distinguished fashion photographer as well, working with publications like GQ, Vanity Fair, Esquire, Elle, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. His long list of clients included the names Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Liz Claiborne and Armani. One of the most influential images of his career, Young Man, Y’s for Living, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 1988, was initially used in a fashion advertisement for Japanese design icon Yohji Yamamoto.

No matter what he was photographing, Markus was resolutely traditional in his technique. Even as digital photography became more common, he remained in the darkroom developing silver gelatin prints. He strove to keep the process simple and free of gimmickry.

Markus received numerous accolades over the course of his career, including Life magazine’s Alfred Eisenstaedt Award and several Clio Awards. His work has been exhibited at the Staley-Wise Gallery in New York City, the Obscura Gallery in Santa Fe and the Peter Fetterman Gallery in Santa Monica.

In 2013, Markus settled with his wife in Santa Fe, where he focused more on landscape photography. He died in 2022.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of original Kurt Markus photography.