Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 15

1930s JeanneLavinParis ArtDeco Tulle Silk CoutureAdaptation Black Evening Jacket

$5,810
£4,442.05
€5,116.35
CA$8,141.59
A$9,089.32
CHF 4,762.67
MX$111,262.21
NOK 60,485.93
SEK 57,030.55
DKK 38,183.84

About the Item

In the 1930s when French fashion couturier Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) was creating decorative bias-cut silk tulle overlays for her feminine full-skirted sleeveless "robes de style", she designed this black semi-transparent silk-tulle formal jacket featuring diagonally-striped topstitched silk-crepe appliques throughout the bias-cut panels. This sheer geometric-patterned cape-like jacket has a skirt that drapes from an open waistline and a top-fastening bodice with gathered rounded 3/4-length sleeves that each have two arm seams and shirred embroidered cuffs. It could have been the first "swing coat" design that was given that name around 1935, when Lanvin was the "uncontested leader in the haute-couture field"--according to the French Palais Galliera that has collected and exhibited similar garments at its fashion museum in Paris. In New York, TheMet collected a House of Lanvin black evening coat with a similar shape that also features dramatic linear appliques, but in a white starburst that it dates to Spring/Summer 1927. The unprecedented modern look of this Art-Deco women's jacket, which was inspired by 18th-Century French and Spanish topcoats for aristocratic court dresses, may have been good cause for Maison Lanvin to custom-make some close reproductions of a one-of-a-kind couture original for additional clients in Paris, which is implied by the remaining French brand-label noting "Adaptation Jean Lanvin 22 Faub. St. Honore Paris"--the location where Lanvin first gained her initial fame for her cloche hats as a milliner. Until the end of the 1930s, the inventive designer created an array of embellishments and accessories to continue to produce novel variations of her signature robe-de-style, whose form changed little since she introduced it in the early 1910s. We noticed that another 1stDibs dealer has listed an "Art Deco tulle gown" with a Jeanne Lanvin 1931-dated couture label, whose maxi-dress overlay is similarly constructed with ribbon-like silk strips to create a unique bold pattern. So there was ample time for Lanvin to rework this early-1930s style before she died, whereafter her daughter continued to operate what has since become the longest-running couture business. As this is a museum-worthy piece approaching a century in age, we will leave the decision to the buyer if they wish to restore the well-constructed jacket with its surprisingly sturdy materials, which--like the aforementioned $37,500-listing for the tulle gown and the archived fragile fashion featured in TheMet current exhibition "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion"--is damaged with some holes, plus rips near the neck where we have added one black safety-pin at the left shoulder seam for its display on a mannequin for our photography. As the fabrics remain black and there are textural elements throughout the patterned jacket, we believe that an expert could repair it to suit a U.S.-size 2 or 4. Hidden on the front below the right corner of the neckline, there are four small black hooks for fastening the jacket to the other side above the bust. In our photos, we only fastened the top hook.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Length: 31 in (78.74 cm)
  • Style:
    Art Deco, sleeping beauty (Of the Period)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244222107572

More From This Seller

View All
Couture Antique Tuxedo Wool Ribbed&QuiltedSatin Lined&Padded Black Tailcoat
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique ArtDeco-period couture British wool-and-satin black tuxedo button-decorated open-breasted tailcoat fits a women's U.S.-size 6 so well that we think it was custom made fo...
Category

1920s British Tailcoats

1990s Jil Sander BiasCut Black Sheer Linen DeepVneck LongSleeve Tunic Mini Dress
By Jil Sander
Located in Chicago, IL
With the finest fabric and tailoring--the base expectation for all progressive minimalist luxurious fashions designed for powerful women by German Jil Sander before the Prada-buyout ...
Category

1990s German Mini Dress

BillBlass 1970s TuxedoLike EcruSatinTrim BoldShoulder BlackWoolCrepe ShiftDress
By Bill Blass
Located in Chicago, IL
Around 1970 when Bill Blass introduced his eponymous brand after becoming a leading couture fashion designer among New York City society, he created this sleek tuxedo-like ecru-satin...
Category

1970s American Evening Dresses and Gowns

ChristianLacroix 1980s 4PieceSet Lace TopstitchedSilk Skirt ZipJacket Ensemble
By Christian Lacroix Paris
Located in Chicago, IL
Evoking late-1980s couture with complex construction showcasing a wide variety of sewing techniques and French lace, this like-new "Christian Lacroix Paris Made In France" fuchsia-la...
Category

1980s French Dress and Coat Ensembles

MartinMargiela S/S 2008 PlungingVneck Bias Ruched Black HalterTop HighSlit Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
From one of the last fashion collections for French Maison Martin Margiela by its renowned founder Belgian artist Martin Margiela before he prematurely retired in 2009, this asymmetr...
Category

Early 2000s Italian Aesthetic Evening Dresses

McCartney SS2003 Silk Chiffon Satin Oversized Convertible Sleeves Black Knit Top
By Stella McCartney
Located in Chicago, IL
Appearing in several versions on the Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2003 collection runway with silk oversized long bell sleeves (see our photos of the gold and white versions beginn...
Category

Early 2000s English Blouses

You May Also Like

Black silk satin evening coat with ruffles on the bottom edge Circa 1925/30
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Black silk satin evening coat with ruffles on the bottom edge. SIZE M
Category

1920s Unknown Coats and Outerwear

Black evening coat with over-sleeves in passementerie The Novelty Circa 1930's
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Black evening coat with over-sleeves ( like a cape) in passementerie. Main fabric "dry" thin wool. Lining probably acetate or rayon. Double-breasted. Cut-work on the waist. Short sp...
Category

1930s American Coats and Outerwear

A Black taffeta evening jacket by Agnès-Drecoll Haute Couture - Paris Circa 1932
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1932 Paris Rare evening coat jacket in black silk taffeta with a waxed effect from the Agnès-Drecoll houses, which merged in 1931. A clever cut with yokes on the bias and puffed sleeves that are the height of haute couture technology. Elegant side surplices emphasise the waist and the skirted effect of the bottom of this jacket. Coat fully lined in black taffeta and woven label indicating Maisons Agnès-Drecoll, Paris, 24 place Vendôme. The seams are finished by hand. No flaws to note. Very good colour and condition. Dimensions: Equivalent to size 36 France. Height 101 cm, shoulders 39 cm, chest 83 cm, waist 68 cm, hips 90 cm, sleeves 53 cm, turn of sleeve 37 cm. Agnès-Drecoll is a French haute couture house founded in Paris in 1931. It was formed from the merger of Agnès, founded around 1898, and Drecoll. Agnès appeared in Paris around 1898, and its designer, Mme Havet, who became known as ‘Madame...
Category

1930s French Dinner Jackets

JEAN PATOU Adaptation c.1930's Black Silk Jacket Ruffled Capelet
By Jean Patou
Located in Thiensville, WI
Vintage Jean Patou Adaptation c.1930's black silk capelet. Shawl collar with gathered piping detail. Three center front covered buttons over top sna...
Category

1930s French Capes

1920S Black Silk & Lamé Chiffon Evening Wrap Kimono With Crystals
Located in New York, NY
1920S Black Silk & Lamé Chiffon Evening Wrap Kimono With Crystals
Category

1920s Coats

Black silk kimono jacket with see-through lace back on tulle Gianfranco Ferré
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Black silk kimono jacket with see-through lace back on tulle. The bottom edge of the jacket is lightly quilted and top-stitched. SIZE L
Category

1980s Italian Jackets