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A ceremonial Couture Dolman possibly Worth- French Circa 1875
$2,952.94
£2,218.70
€2,500
CA$4,066.22
A$4,550.85
CHF 2,382.21
MX$55,284.59
NOK 30,247.99
SEK 28,544.14
DKK 19,027.49
About the Item
Circa 1875
France
Oriental-style opera or ceremonial visit in gold-spun turquoise silk tapestry known as Abba and originating from Syria. Cut with short basques at the back, long panels at the front, and bent sleeves loaded with color-embossed silk bangs and gold trimmings tassels. Falbalas of double rows of mechanical lace punctuated by a wide ribbon of copper-colored moire to tie in front. Gold cord piping applied to the back. Copper-plated satin lining. No defects to be noted. Exceptional condition.
Size: Large size type 40 France. Front height 107 cm, back height 73 cm, shoulders 41 cm, chest 100 cm, fringes 10 cm.
The use of Middle Eastern textiles for Western fashion was relatively rare during the Second French Empire. The taste for Orientalism in fashion was most prevalent in the eighteenth century, under the First Empire and during the first third of the twentieth century. This visit was made by a Parisian couturier from an Ottoman abba or imam's cloak. This is a tapestry made of silk reps woven with gold or silver metallic threads and featuring a geometric design with vertical lines. Some abba may feature ikate patterns or kilim weaving. This was a speciality of Damascus and Aleppo, nicknamed Zok after an Aleppo weaver, and was used for furniture and clothing. The few known examples of abba being used for fashion are in accessories, such as slippers or reticules in the 19th century. Zok was also woven in Egypt and Lebanon, countries with extensive trade links with France in the 19th century. In our example, the juxtaposition of oriental graphics with French upholstery taste, combining lace, moire and trimmings, is particularly daring, not to say prestigious.
- Designer:
- Style:1875 (Of the Period)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Good Condition and Color.
- Seller Location:Toulon, FR
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU633326608532
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