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OscarDeLaRenta 1982 MuseumShown Handpainted Floral Abstract CrepeDeChine Caftan

About the Item

U.S.-based Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for Spring 1982 created a number of styles of bold vibrant uniquely-handpainted crepe-de-chine caftans that helped define his five-decade fashion legacy, while conjuring his Dominican Republic birthplace. So much so that five years after the designer's death at 82, one of his caftans--with the same exact maxi-dress construction, same colorful large ruffled-petal lilies and abstractions handpainted on white crepe-de-chine, and same teal banded neckline and sleeve hems as our floor-sweeping Oscar de la Renta-branded Spring 1982 Style 4030--starred on a prominent dramatic mannequin in a museum exhibition in that country's capital-city Santiago de los Caballeros. The show at Centro Leon about his fashion career and life was titled "Being Oscar de la Renta". When worn, this caftan appears rectangular at the top when the arms are held to each side at shoulder level. WWD featured this caftan prominently in the primary image that accompanied its article about the exhibit opening, which was published on November 22, 2019 (see our photo of the WWD Fashion Scoops image). Several years earlier in 2016 at a San Francisco museum, Vogue-associated fashion journalist and author Andre Leon Talley (1948-2022) curated the posthumous retrospective, "Oscar de la Renta, His Legendary World of Style" at the de Young, whose cherry-red exhibition walls also featured multiple caftan-clad mannequins. Further emphasizing the significance in fashion history of our maxi-dress design by de la Renta, Talley styled the matching floor-grazing caftan on a mannequin with outstretched arms in a vignette paired with another Spring 1982 shorter v-neck caftan, whereby viewers could see only the back of the longer handpainted white-background crepe de chine (with a different abstract-floral painting than ours, but most of the same colors), along with its banded neckline and sleeve hems (see our photos of the WWD coverage). Decades earlier in 1983, de la Renta had the foresight to donate some of his Spring 1982 handpainted crepe-de-chine caftans to the Kent State University Museum, which has a large fashion collection of 20th-Century American designers. Our caftan's ecru rectangular brand tag reads only "Oscar de la Renta" in brown-thread script (not also "for Swirl" like other loungewear styles), with an additional white label for his longtime retailer Saks Fifth Avenue. The excellent-condition gown shows no sign that it was ever worn. So the over-40-year-old printed care label found at a seam at the lower half of the dress remains fully legible, where also noted are the caftan material, style number, "Made in U.S.A.", and size "M". While almost any size person may wear this pullover gown due to the only restriction at the neckline and wide-sleeve cuffs, a person under 5'5" would need to wear heels given its 58-inch length from the shoulder seam at the V-neck to the hem. For perspective on other sales of well-documented pieces designed by the founder Oscar de la Renta and sold by 1stDibs dealers: a 2010-collection strapless maxi dress worn by actress Nicole Kidman for a broadcast awards-show appearance sold for $6,500, while a museum exhibited 2004-collection coat-and-boots set sold for nearly three times as much for the asking price of $18,000. Compared to current similar Oscar de la Renta-brand styles by the ongoing house's co-creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, their Italian-made viscose v-neck pullover maxi caftan in a "painterly abstract Moracaine" print is available for around $4,000 at Saks. Because of the prominence of our crepe-de-chine caftan style and its handpainted "abstract lilies" motif in the museum-curated context of Oscar de la Renta's entire career, as well as that it is more than 30 years older than the aforementioned 2004-collection sale also in pristine condition, we reasonably price our rarity at more than twice the aforementioned ready-to-wear retail offering.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Length: 58 in (147.32 cm)Marked Size: M (fits larger sizes, too) (US)
  • Style:
    West Indies, Moroccan (In the Style Of)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244223915622

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