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ArtDeco 5BlackDiamond-FacetedSpinels 6BezelSetCognacDiamonds CastSilver Earrings

$1,285per set
£975.03per set
€1,114.86per set
CA$1,794.80per set
A$1,995.57per set
CHF 1,041.98per set
MX$24,290.94per set
NOK 13,295.16per set
SEK 12,456.93per set
DKK 8,320.39per set
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About the Item

Featuring five sparkly black opaque spinels with diamond-shaped facets and splintery vitreous surfaces, along with bezel-set champagne diamonds with yellow or peach reflections in sunlight, these unsigned mid-century Buccellati-style burnished-silver clip earrings were most likely handcrafted before U.S-copyright protection began in 1955. To achieve the textural and reflective intricacies that are appreciated on close inspection, the artisan used casting, finishing tools and wire. Notably, by the early 1950s, brown diamonds were increasingly used in jewelry after gem importers introduced them in colors of "champagne" and "cognac", which are the adjectives most often used for them today. Between the crystals, six round faceted brown diamonds are bezel set in silver for alternate white and grey reflections in a five-point concave shape, which recalls a starfish when viewed from the back. Unlike the smooth round bezels on each point, the sole centered fluted bezel has a wide base--also in a five-point organic shape--whose fine hand-engraved texture twists as the circumference diminishes towards the top. Although there are some tiny chips and rough edges on a few of the many spinel facets, they are only visible with a loop and can be rotated out of view since the crystals are actually tightly wired beads for nearly 360-degrees of sparkle between the silver points. While in a monochrome and geometric Art Deco style, the earrings could date no earlier than the 1930s given the clip style. The use of black spinels mixed with dark diamonds became fashionable as The Great Depression diminished and a wider variety of imported gems were used in jewelry, such as by the late internationally renowned Fulco di Verdura who also created pieces featuring diamond-faceted spinels.

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