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Couture 1950s French Montague Wired GlassBeads CrystalEnameledRondelles Earrings

About the Item

In the 1950s while he operated an eponymous Parisian couture costume-jewelry boutique, Francoise Montague designed these unique handmade ornate pair of sparkly clip earrings featuring black faceted-glass beads, prong-set clear crystals, crystal-inset black-enameled silver rondelles, and gold or black-enameled metal caps and spacers. The complex convoluted knotted wiring is hidden in back by his signature ribbed-bullseye plates for earrings, while his pieces were not signed until after mid-century. According to the book by Florence Muller, Costume Jewelry For Haute Couture, Montague's oldest pieces were only identified by a paper brand tag when sold at the boutique, which had been founded by his mother in the late 1940s after the success of her post-war artisan jewelry workshop De Saurma. Some other mid-century Parisian paruriers with distinctly different styles also sometimes used a ribbed-bullseye plate, but their likewise unsigned one-of-a-kind earrings for couturiers, such as Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Balenciaga, were instead stamped with the patent-text "depose" and/or country of origin.

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