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Classic Retro Era Italian Tubogas Collar Necklace in 18K Gold

$9,680List Price

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Collar Necklace of 18K Gold Openwork Plaque Links Set w Diamonds & "Big 3" Gems
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
We acquired this dramatic and sexy collar in 2024. It's a custom piece, reportedly made sometime between 1960 and 1980 by a Los Angeles goldsmith, but the piece is not signed. We would find this surprising if not for the fact that our own goldsmith rarely signs anything unless we ask him...repeatedly. So leaving that mystery aside, we are proud to offer such a stunning piece. The front-facing half of the necklace is made from five graduated plaques, each boasting meticulously finished openwork plus diamonds and "Big Three" gemstones. Each plaque is hinged to its neighbor with a sturdy ring. The back of the necklace has a nicely integrated box clasp (with figure 8 safety catch) plus four solid, unembellished bar links, curved and carefully graduated. The plaques graduate from 40mm wide x 25mm tall in the center front to 21mm wide x 7mm tall at the back. All but the back two solid plaque links are trapezoids -- not rectangles -- fashioned to angle perfectly in the three dimensional human space where the necklace will hang. Between the front and back, on each side, are two "transition" links -- a great detail that highlights some real design talent: First is a link that includes three bezel-set gemstones but no openwork, and next is a link that just includes a triangular sliver of open space, thus creating a natural transition to the solid links. Amazing workmanship! The nine diamonds are all brilliant cut rounds pavé-set in little white gold square plates...
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Eytan purchased a set of two gorgeous cigarette boxes years ago from a customer because he liked the clasps -- the calibre-cut rubies, channel settings, strong geometric shapes and sloping elevations are such perfect exemplars of 1930s/1940s Retro Era jewelry...
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Italian Chain Necklace with Oversized and Textured Links in 18 Karat Yellow Gold
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The big, airy links in this striking 19" long necklace come in five sizes and two shapes (ovals and circles). Each flattened link has two flat sides: one side is stamped with an abs...
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Coral "Pussy Willow" Choker-Length Necklace in 18 Karat & 14 Karat Yellow Gold
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This sprig of richly hued coral buds was originally a brooch, probably made in the 1960s or early 1970s. Oriented horizontally, Eytan Brandes recognized an interesting graduated sha...
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250 Carat Black Diamond Bead Choker Necklace with Garnet Clasp in 18 Karat Gold
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
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Reversible Diamond and Emerald Quatrefoil Chain Necklace in 18 Karat Yellow Gold
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Eytan Brandes cast little quatrefoils from a very old station chain brought in by a customer many years ago. Her chain was pot metal, and in terrible condition, but had a lot of sen...
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