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Antique 18K Gold Platinum Opal, Demantoid Garnet, Diamond, Enamel Pansy Necklace

About the Item

An antique opal, demantoid garnet, diamond, enamel, platinum and yellow gold necklace, comprising one carved opal, one round cut demantoid garnet, eight old single cut diamonds, and white and blue enamel, set in 18 karat yellow gold and platinum, to an 18 karat yellow gold chain. A highly unusual and scarce Art Nouveau necklace. The necklace is set to the centre with an opal, which has been carved by hand, into the shape of a pansy. The opal exhibits a beautiful pastel hued play-of-colour, with greens, purples, pinks, oranges and blues shimmering across the opal, giving it a truly ethereal look. The finely carved opal is set to the centre with a round cut demantoid garnet, held within yellow gold claws, of the most vibrant green. The pansy is surrounded by an undulating, scrolling, asymmetric design, typical of the Art Nouveau period. This beautiful organic design is studded with old single cut diamonds, held within platinum, millegrain edged settings, and adorned with blue and white enamel. The blue enamelled sections are accented with white, and the white enamelled sections are accented with gold. From the bottom of the piece, a small drop is suspended, heart shaped, and adorned with enamel and a final sparkling diamond. The necklace is complete with an integral trace-link chain, in yellow gold, fastened with a secure lobster claw clasp. This piece of jewellery is extremely unusual; the likes of which I have not seen before. The enamelwork is reminiscent of Carlo Giuliano’s work, who took reference from the Renaissance period. The necklace is in good condition, with a small chip to a section of blue enamel (right-hand-side) and some general light wear to the enamel. The opal is in excellent condition. Chain and clasp a later replacement. Wear and tear acquiescent with age. In the Victorian era, pansies were used to express love, with the translation from the French pansée, meaning ‘thought’, and symbolically translating to “think of me” in terms of the gift of such flower. Pansies are also known as ‘heartsease’. Necklace length: 19.8 inch / 50.5cm Pendant length: 52.5mm Pendant width: 28mm Pendant depth: 7.5mm Opal weight, estimated (very roughly): 14ct Total diamond weight, estimated: 0.1ctw Demantoid garnet weight, estimated: 0.03ctw Gross weight: 9.79g Hallmarks: none, test as 18 karat gold and platinum, circa 1900

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