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Art Nouveau Demantoid

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Antique Art Nouveau Demantoid Garnet Diamond Gold Chain
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
An art nouveau 18k karat yellow gold chain with approximately 31 carats of bezel set demantoid garnets. This is a rare stone and it is uncommon to find such a collection assembled to...
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Demantoid Garnet Ruby 14 Karat Gold Gargoyle Band Ring
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Band ring is highly rendered as a gargoyle with horns and scrolling whiplash Accented by round cut demantoid garnet eyes - bright lime green in color And a round cut ruby clutched ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Band Rings

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Antique Russian Demantoid Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917. This large and elaborate antique pendant is crafted in rose and green 14K gold. The design of the openwork pendant combines floral and geometri...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Garnet

Diamond & Demantoid Art Nouveau Style Ring EGL Certified
Located in Southbury, CT
A 1.50-carat diamond and an over 2-carat demantoid garnet are the dazzling co-stars in this contemporary 14K yellow gold ring created in the style of the Russian Art Nouveau. The ve...
Category

2010s Art Nouveau More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Madeira Citrine and Demantoid Heart Necklace
Located in Narberth, PA
A beautiful festoon citrine necklace from the Art Nouveau (ca1900) era! Made of vibrant 9kt yellow gold, the delicate chain is adorned with five dangling hearts, giving the piece a r...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Citrine, Garnet, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Diamond Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Gold Frog Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a cute and stylized frog Set throughout by round cut demantoid garnets and old European cut diamonds Tested as 14 karat gold Circa: 1905 Frog measures: 5/8 x 1/2 inch...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau 0.40 Carat Demantoid Garnet Gold Stylized Whiplash Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering two bezel set round and old European cut demantoid garnets weighing approximately 0.40 carat total, transparent medium-dark yellowish-green Surrounded by three sections of...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Diamond Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Gold Insect Bug Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a six-legged bug set with single cut demantiod garnets and Swiss cut diamonds Three Swiss cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.03 carat Six single cut demantoid garnet...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Garnet, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Krementz Art Nouveau Pearl Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Gold Star Stickpin
By Krementz & Co
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a six rayed star, each with two round freshwater natural pearls, white body color and slight silver overtones Centering a claw set, round cut demantoid garnet, transpare...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Baroque Pearl Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Gold Fierce Lion Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a deeply carved fierce lion face with demantoid garnet eyes; lime green in color Featuring an open mouth set with a baroque pearl; white in body color with good luster ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Opal and Demantoid Garnet Brooch, 15ct Gold, Birmingham, 1908
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
An Art Nouveau brooch from 1908 consisting of a scroll decorated open work panel measuring 33.00mm x 24.00mm, centring on a foliate designed panel millegrain set with a circular cabo...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, Opal, Gold, 15k Gold

Russian Demantoid Garnet Diamond Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1910 14K Yellow Gold Russian pendant set with Old Mine Cut Diamonds, Green Demantoid Garnets and further decorated with Enamel Flowers. Measuring 2 3/4 inch in length and 1 5/8...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 14k Gold

Antique Royal Presentation Gold Platinum Enamel Demantoid Diamond Cufflinks
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1908 A pair of royal presentation cufflinks is crafted in platinum and matte 14K yellow gold. The cufflinks are decorated with royal red enamel crown and cipher of king Ferdin...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Cufflinks

14 Karat Yellow Gold Russia St.Petersburg Stones Demantoid Pendant
Located in Orimattila, FI
14 Karat Yellow Gold Russia St.Petersburg Stones Demantoid Pendant. Stamp 56 Stamp AT
Category

20th Century Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Yellow Gold

Early 20th Century Russian 2.0 Carat Diamond and Demantoid Garnet Pendant
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
A stylised Art Nouveau, open wire work pendant set with nine old cut diamonds in yellow claw settings with foliate deisngs inset with small, old cut and rose cut demantoid garnets. T...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet

Arts & Crafts Black Opal Demantoid Garnet Pearl Diamond 14 Karat Gold Necklace
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Stylized chain centers a swagged station with silver-topped geometric forms Featuring a baroque pearl cluster measuring from 9.5 mm to 4.5 mm; white in body color with strong irides...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Opal, Pearl, Black Opal, Gold, Silver

Antique Brooch / Pin, Demantoid Garnet, Pearl and Enamel, 14 Karat Yellow Gold
By Sarosi By Timeless Gems
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This beautiful 14k yellow gold Art Nouveau inspired pin features a very rare demantoid garnet, the rarest of all garnets. Displaying its characteristic green hue and brilliant fire, ...
Category

20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Multi-gemstone, Garnet, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Grape Pin Brooch in Gold with Demantoid Green Garnet and Fresh Water Pearls
Located in Berkeley, CA
Natural white pearls play the part of white grapes that elegantly hang below golden leaves with six demantoid green garnets. The textured leaves have little lines that add an intrica...
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Freshwater Pearl, Natural Pearl, Garnet, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Demantoid Garnet Diamond Gold Dragonfly Brooch
Located in Chestnut Hill, MA
Delicate silver on gold art nouveau period demantoid garnet and diamond dragonfly brooch circa 1905.
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, Silver, 18k Gold

Art Nouveau 1.97 Carat Demantoid Garnet Solitaire Ring
Located in Essex, GB
A marvellous ring. The demantoid garnet in the centre displays a hyper-charged bright electric green and is secured in a four claw open collet. The high shoulders feature two bands o...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Solitaire Rings

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Turn of the Century Demantoid Garnet and Diamond Bracelet
Located in London, GB
A turn of the century demantoid garnet and diamond bracelet, consisted of eleven links each bearing a flower with a demantoid garnet centre, swiss-cut diamond encrusted petals and st...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, 18k Gold, Silver

Art Nouveau Demantoid Garnet Two-Color Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
A Russian Art Nouveau demantoid garnet, spinel and two-color gold floral pendant. The green and rose gold pendant is set with 21 sparkling Uralian demantoids and 2 spinels. Marked wi...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Garnet, 14k Gold

Antique Art Nouveau Demantoid Enamel Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Russian, made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917 An antique Russian 14k rose gold question mark – shaped pendant is centered with a painted golden enamel flower highlighted with a ru...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

American Art Nouveau Demantoid Garnet Diamond Pearl Gold Pendant
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Sweet and feminine: 15-18k yellow gold and silver pendant, classic art nouveau design with a scrolling open-work design of diamond- and pearl florets and bezel-set demantoid garnets ...
Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, 15k Gold

Art Nouveau Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Rose Gold Cigar Cutter Dragon Pendant
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Tubular pendant features a highly rendered serpent dragon design Its snake-like form wraps fully around the pendant with scale and whiplash details With two fierce faces accented b...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Garnet, Rose Gold

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
This elegant floral motif Art Nouveau necklace was handcrafted in Moscow between 1908 and 1917. Rose gold (pendant), yellow gold (chain), 20 rose-cut diamonds (set in silver), 14...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Chain Necklaces

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Kazan between 1908 and 1917 An openwork pendant of a floral design set with Russian demantoids and diamonds 14K greenish yellow gold and silver (pendant), 14K yellow go...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 Designed as a stylized flower in Art Nouveau taste, 14k rose and green gold, 12 sparkling green Uralian demantoids Marked with 56 zolotnik ...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Gold Bracelet
Located in Chicago, IL
made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917 A 14K greenish yellow gold bracelet with Art Nouveau style floral links is embellished with three demantoids. The round demantoid is ap...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Link Bracelets

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Gold Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
The brooch is designed as a flower in the Art Nouveau taste of the period, handcrafted in 14K rose gold, set with apple green Russian demantoid garnets from the Ural Mountains. Th...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Ruby Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917 a 14K gold pendant of an openwork floral design set with Russian Uralian demantoids and natural rubies, marked on frame with 56 zolotnik gold ...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Art Nouveau Antique Russian Demantoid Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917 A 14k matte and polished rose gold antique Art Nouveau pendant is designed as a ribbon tied spray of flowers embellished with Russian demantoi...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Antique Demantoid Diamond Gold Art Nouveau Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Kazan between 1899 and 1908. The ring features an excellent sparkling green 0.77 ct demantoid garnet with a superb well-defined "horsetail" and is also set with an old Eur...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau More Rings

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid & Baroque Pearl Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
A polished rose and matte green 14K gold openwork floral pendant features twenty eight vibrant green Russian demantoid garnets and a beautiful baroque pearl. This delicate Art Nou...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Russian Art Nouveau Enameled Demantoid Long Earrings
Located in Chicago, IL
These delicate vintage Russian pendant earrings were made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917. Handcrafted in 14K rose gold, decorated with finely enameled pearl white flowers, and s...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Dangle Earrings

Antique Russian Demantoid Diamond Art Nouveau Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917. This 14K green and rose gold ring is designed as an Art Nouveau flower embellished with a sparkling old mine cut diamond and a golden green Russ...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Garnet

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Garnet Flower Brooch
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A superb antique Russian brooch, modelled in the Art Nouveau style. Worked in 14k (56 zolotnik) gold, the brooch is crafted as a stylised flower set with vibrant green garnets and a ...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold

  • Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Garnet Flower Brooch
  • Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Garnet Flower Brooch
  • Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Garnet Flower Brooch
  • Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Garnet Flower Brooch
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H 0.83 in. W 1.78 in.
Art Nouveau Antique Russian Chrysolite Demantoid Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917 This elegant Art Nouveau era pendant is crafted in polished rose and matte greenish-yellow 14K gold. The pendant is embellished with golden-gree...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Antique Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Diamond Gold Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
Russian, made between 1899 and 1908 A 14k gold ring is designed as a stylized flower or a fly. The ring is set with one 1.22 ct Russian demantoid of excellent color and clarity, o...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau More Rings

Materials

Garnet

Antique Art Nouveau Tourmaline Demantoid Spinel Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Russian, made in Kazan between 1899 and 1908 The 14K gold pendant of an Art Nouveau floral design set with a hot pink tourmaline, 27 sparkling apple green Russian demantoids and t...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Garnet, Tourmaline

Art Nouveau Antique Russian Demantoid Garnet Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 An antique 14K rose and green gold pendant is designed in Art Nouveau taste as a stylized flower. The pendant is embellished with sparkling brig...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Garnet

Art Nouveau Antique Russian Demantoid Diamond Gold Cufflinks
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 Marked with Russian assay mark and maker's initials Greenish yellow 14K gold cufflinks with applied stylized flowers set with sparkling gre...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond

Antique Art Nouveau Siberian Amethyst Demantoid Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made between 1908 and 1917 An antique Russian gold pendant is designed in Art Nouveau taste as a stylized grape vine with finely modeled green gold grape leaves. The pendant features...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst

Art Nouveau Antique Demantoid Pearl Diamond Gold Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Russian, circa 1910 This elegant antique Art Nouveau pendant is crafted in silver topped 14K gold and embellished with old mine cut diamonds (approximately 1.85 ct total), bright gr...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, Gold

Art Nouveau Pendant Necklace with Citrine and Demantoid Garnet
Located in New York, NY
An Art Nouveau 14 karat gold pendant necklace with citrine and demantoid garnet by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The tiered necklace is comprised of a chandeliered pendant of intricate ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Citrine, Garnet

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid and Enamel Pendant/Brooch
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
Beautiful Art Nouveau Pendant/Brooch with a central Russian Demantoid accentuated by Pearls and Diamonds, which are marvellously combined with very pretty green, white and greyish/bl...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Natural Pearl, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Two-Color Gold Pendant / Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
The pink gold pendant / brooch is designed as a stylized grapevine with chased green gold leaves. The frame is marked with maker's initials and 56 zolotnik gold standard (14K). ...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau More Necklaces

Antique Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Pearl Gold Bangle Bracelet
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 An antique polished 14K gold bangle bracelet is centered with a flower designed in Art Nouveau taste. The flower is embellished with sparkling R...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Bangles

Materials

Garnet

Art Nouveau Antique Russian Two-Color Gold Demantoid Pendant
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908. This elegant Art Nouveau era rose and green 14K gold pendant is designed as a stylized flower accented with Russian demantoid garnets. The pen...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Garnet

Antique Art Nouveau Russian Demantoid Ruby Pearl Gold Pendant Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 A 14K gold floral brooch / pendant is embellished with 27 sparkling Russian demantoids, three rubies and four pearls. Marked on frame and p...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Art Nouveau Antique Russian Demantoid Gold 10th Anniversary Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 An elegant antique 14K gold brooch is designed as the Roman numeral ten ‘X’ interlaced with an Art Nouveau flower branch. The brooch is embellish...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Antique Art Nouveau Gold and Demantoid Ring with Ginko Leaves
Located in Stamford, CT
For the love of beauty, six rare, green, demantoid garnets, brilliant cut, bring bright, unique color to this ring of 14 Kt gold made in the Art Nouveau era, c. 1910. The demantoids ...
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Band Rings

Materials

Garnet, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Style 18 Karat Gold Demantoid Garnet and Diamond Ring
Located in Banbury, GB
This absolutely mesmerising ring captures the Art Nouveau style wonderfully, the beautiful flowing scroll motif in rich 18 karat gold against the vivid green colour of the demantoid ...
Category

2010s Art Nouveau Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold

Art Nouveau Diamond Demantoid Garnet 18 Karat Gold Snake Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a coiling snake with ruby accented eyes and a fine scaled texture Head features an old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.03 carat - eye clean and white Body...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

French Art Nouveau Diamond, Demantoid Garnet, Crystal and Gold Flower Brooch
Located in New York, NY
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold brooch with demantoid garnets, diamonds and rock crystal. The brooch has 42 round demantoid garnets with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Art Nouveau Opal Demantoid Garnet Seed Pearl 14 Karat Gold Pendant Necklace
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering a Swiss cut demantoid garnet surrounded by three oval cabochon opals in a stylized flower motif Demaintoid garnet is a bright yellowish-green and opals display strong red ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Garnet, Opal, Freshwater Pearl, 14k Gold

Art Nouveau Opal Demantoid Garnet Seed Pearl 14 Karat Gold Pendant Necklace
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering a Swiss cut demantoid garnet surrounded by three oval cabochon opals in a stylized flower motif Demaintoid garnet is a bright yellowish-green and opals display strong red ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Garnet, Opal, Freshwater Pearl, 14k Gold

Riker Brothers Art Nouveau Enamel Demantoid Garnet 14 Karat Gold Snake Stickpin
By Riker Brothers
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Depicting a snake in a coiled spiral with garnet accented eyes Head features an inset round cut demantoid garnet - bright lime green Body is glossed with ombrè blue/green enamel - ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Garnet, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold

Art Nouveau Gold Ring with Black Opal and Demantoid Garnets by Walton & Co.
Located in New York, NY
An Art Nouveau 14 karat gold ring with black opal and demantoid garnets by Walton & Co. The ring has a black opal, and 11 round-cut demantoid garmets with an approximate total weight...
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Garnet, Opal, 14k Gold

Antique Russian Demantoid Diamond Gold Bird Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in Kazan between 1899 and 1908 A large and finely handcrafted 14K gold brooch is designed as a flying bird carrying a bezel-set 0.55 ct antique cut diamond. The chased body o...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

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Art Nouveau Demantoid For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact art nouveau demantoid you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from Gold, 14k Gold and Yellow Gold — can elevate any look. You can easily find a 85 antique edition and 2 modern creations to choose from as well. You’re likely to find the perfect art nouveau demantoid among the distinctive items we have available, which includes versions made as long ago as the 19th Century as well as those produced as recently as the 21st Century. For this particular piece, 1 Carat and 1.5 Carat are consistently popular carat weights. Creating an art nouveau demantoid has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by Krementz & Co, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Riker Brothers are consistently popular. An art nouveau demantoid of any era or style can lend versatility to your look, but a version featuring Garnet, from our inventory of 44, is particularly popular. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also old mine cut and cabochon versions for sale. When shopping for an art nouveau demantoid, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.

How Much is a Art Nouveau Demantoid?

Prices for an art nouveau demantoid can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $495 and can go as high as $41,811, while this accessory, on average, fetches $4,200.

A Close Look at Art Nouveau Jewelry

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.