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1.75 Carat Zircon Plique a Jour Enamel Art Nouveau Ring Magnificent Antique Gold

About the Item

This is an extraordinary antique enamel ring with a stunning round faceted Zircon in the center. The spectacular setting is adorned throughout with Plique a Jour Enamel decoration. The Plique Enamel creates a stained glass effect of great beauty. The open work design with the Plique enamel set within it is the work of a master artisan. The sides and gallery of the ring have beautiful scroll decoration. The Zircon is a gorgeous fine blue color and is 1.75 Carats. The ring is 14 Karat Gold. The monumental size of the ring creates a fabulous statement jewel. This is one of the most beautiful enamel rings we have ever seen and is such a treasure with the combination of the gorgeous Zircon, the exquisite gold work and the Plique a Jour Enamel. The top of the ring is 1 7/8 inches (45mm) long by 3/4 inch (20mm) wide. The ring is a size 7.75 US (P 1/2), and can be easily resized if desired. The ring is 14 Karat Gold. The ring weighs 6.2 grams. Plique-à-jour, is a French term that translates (as nearly as can be determined) to “letting in the daylight” and defines a type of transparent enamel that has no backing. Similar to a stained glass window, the design has a metal outline filled with various colored transparent, glass-like enamels. First discovered in the 15th century by Benvenuto Cellini, plique-à-jour was rediscovered in France circa 1900 and soared to new heights during the Art Nouveau period. Similar to cloisonné, plique-à-jour is composed of metal cloisons or cells with a temporary backing. Rene Lalique created his unrivaled plique-à-jour jewels by hand piercing the cloisons out of gold sheet and backing them with copper to create a solid framework for this delicate enamel. The copper backing was later removed through the use of an acid bath. Plique-à-jour provides a natural translucency, similar to that found in nature, which makes it ideal for rendering leaves, flowers, insect wings and other gossamer illusions, highlighting and featuring the play-of-color provided by light passing through the enamel. Undoubtedly, plique-à-jour was a critical innovation in developing the Art Nouveau aesthetic in jewelry.

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