Skip to main content

Art Nouveau Plique A Jour

1
to
16
259
99
209
141
81
75
70
66
39
27
23
16
15
9
8
5
5
5
4
4
1
1
1
1
78
11
9
8
6
Sort By
Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Enamel Ruby and Diamond Ring, ca. 1900s
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Enamel Ruby and Diamond Ring, ca. 1900s A beautiful Art Nouveau ring
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Enamel, 18k Gold

American Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Wonderful American Art Nouveau 14k Plique a Jour Brooch of enameled poppies on a pale green plique
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

14k Gold

American Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch
American Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch
Free Shipping
W 1 in L 1.2 in
French Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Lavaliere Necklace
Located in Hummelstown, PA
plique-a-jour enamel, lined in glittering rose-cut diamonds. A large luminous pearl drop swings freely
Category

Vintage 1910s French Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

Heinrich Levinger Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Silver Brooch
Located in Berlin, DE
with plique-a-jour enamel decoration and 2 cabochon stones. Mounted in Silver. Marked on the back with
Category

20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Sterling Silver

Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Dragonfly Silver Pendant Necklace
Located in Scotts Valley, CA
Details: Plique-a-Jour Art Nouveau dragonfly pendant necklace in sterling silver in beautiful
Category

Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Silver

Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Dragonfly Silver Pendant Necklace
Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Dragonfly Silver Pendant Necklace
Free Shipping
H 0.69 in Dm 0.25 in L 18 in
Magnificent Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Diamond Gold Ring
Located in London, GB
superb example of the finest Parisian jewelers art from the 1900's in gold, plique-à-jour enamel
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau More Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

Heinrich Levinger Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Silver Brooch, circa 1902
Located in Berlin, DE
The brooch was made by Heinrich Levinger in Pforzheim, Germany, around 1902. Plique-a-jour enamel
Category

Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Pearl, Silver

15k Gold Art Nouveau Plique-à-jour Diamond and Pearl Necklace
By Mappin Brothers
Located in Venice, CA
A classic Art Nouveau design, this 15k rose gold necklace features stunning plique-à-jour, Rose Cut
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 15k Gold, Rose Gold

Art Nouveau Plique à Jour Enamel Diamond Ring Size M (52)
Located in London, GB
piece of the ring. The ring is a fine example of exceptional Art Nouveau craftsmanship and items of this
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Enamel

René Lalique Art Nouveau Plique-à-jour Enamel and Aquamarine "Four Dragonflies"
By René Lalique
Located in New York, NY
dragonflies with plique-à-jour enamel wings highlighted by diamonds and opalescent blue basse taille enamel
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel

René Lalique Art Nouveau Plique-à-jour Enamel, Opal and Pearl "Thistle of Lorrai
By René Lalique
Located in New York, NY
Created by René Lalique around 1901-1903, this plique-à-jour and basse-taille enamel, opal and
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Link Bracelets

Materials

Opal, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Masriera Art Nouveau Plique À Jour Enamel Ring in 18Kt Yellow Gold with Diamonds
By Masriera
Located in Miami, FL
An art nouveau enameled ring designed by Masriera. Colorful piece, created in Barcelona Spain by
Category

Late 20th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

19th Century French Plique a Jour Cloisonné Mosaic Lidded Bowl on Stand
Located in Richmond, VA
Offered is an exquisite, late 19th century French Art Nouveau, Plique a Jour cloisonné-enamel
Category

Antique 19th Century French Art Nouveau Decorative Boxes

Materials

Brass, Enamel

860 Carat Morganite Triple Strand, Plique a Jour, Peridot and Diamond Clasp
By Kiersten Elizabeth
Located in Charleston, SC
The Focal Point of this necklace is also the clasp with a safety catch made from an Art Nouveau
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Morganite, Peridot, 14k Gold, Platinum, Enamel

Art Nouveau 1890 Plique a Jour Pendant Brooch in 18kt Gold Diamonds Pearls Ruby
Located in Miami, FL
Art Nouveau Plique à jour pendant brooch. A exceptional piece, created during the Art Nouveau
Category

Antique 1890s Austrian Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yell...

Art Nouveau Hydrangea Plique a Jour Pendant
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau Hydrangea Plique a Jour Pendant set in silver with hand painted hard enamel florals and
Category

Antique Early 1900s German Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Sterling Silver

Art Nouveau Pearl Plique-A-Jour Enamel 14 Karat Gold Gargoyle Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
translucent cream to white pliquè-a-jour enamel Clutching a round 3.0 mm button pearl; cream in color with
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Diamond Plique-A-Jour Enamel 18 Karat Gold Gibson Girl Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
translucent plique-a-jour enamel Ombrè pastel blue to pastel pink in color while exhibiting no loss Tested
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Enamel, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Pearl Diamond Plique-A-Jour Gold Silver Pendant
Located in New York, NY
Antique Art Nouveau 18k gold and silver drop pendant, adorned with plique-a-jour enamel, 5.8
Category

Antique 19th Century Art Nouveau Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Gold, Silver

Marcus & Co. Plique-à-Jour Art Nouveau Amethyst and Pearl Brooch
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Marcus & Co Plique-à-Jour Art Nouveau Brooch Authentic antique large oval Amethyst brooch with
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Amethyst, Freshwater Pearl, 18k Gold

Art Nouveau green plique-a-jour enamel 18kt yellow gold leaf brooch
Located in Braintree, GB
Antique Art Nouveau green plique-a-jour enamel 18kt yellow gold leaf brooch with old cut diamonds
Category

Antique Early 1900s European Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau, 18K Gold Conch Pearl Plique-a-jour Enamel Flower Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Consisting of a swirling foliate motif with five conch pearl buds and green plique-á-jour enamel
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Enamel, 18k Gold

Art Nouveau c.1900 French Silver, Plique-à-Jour and Paste Antique Brooch
Located in Skelmersdale, GB
with the jewellery of the Art Nouveau era. The Plique à Jour form of enamel work was particularly
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Silver

French Art Nouveau Peridot Diamond Gold and Plique-a-Jour 'Juliet' Pendant
Located in New York, NY
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant with diamonds, pearls and peridots. The pendant features
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Natural Pearl, Peridot, Diamond, 18k Gold

Austrian 1915 Art Nouveau Egyptian Revival Plique à Jour Winged Scarab Brooch
Located in Miami, FL
. Rene Lalique, was the most celebrated art nouveau designer, championed jewelry designer. Plique à jour
Category

Vintage 1910s Austrian Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Opal, Quartz, Silver, Enamel

Art Nouveau Pansy Heart Plique-a-jour Enamel Flower Pendant 14 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
soared to new heights during the Art Nouveau period. Rene Lalique created his unrivaled plique-à-jour
Category

20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

1.75 Carat Zircon Plique a Jour Enamel Art Nouveau Ring Magnificent Antique Gold
Located in New York, NY
enamel. Undoubtedly, plique-à-jour was a critical innovation in developing the Art Nouveau aesthetic in
Category

20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Zircon, Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Fly Insect Bug Leaf Plique-a-jour Enamel Brooch Pin Silver 1900
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A WONDERFUL AND RARE INSECT FLY BUG MOTIF PLIQUE-A-JOUR ENAMEL ART NOUVEAU BROOCH PIN IN
Category

20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Enamel, Silver

Plique-a-Jour Enamel Sapphire Diamond Butterfly Brooch Art Nouveau 18 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
circa 1900 and soared to new heights during the Art Nouveau period. Plique-à-jour provides a natural
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau 18 Karat Gold Plique-à-Jour Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Brooch Pendant
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
Art Nouveau 18k Gold Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Pearl, and Diamond Brooch Pendant Gorgeous Art Nouveau
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold

Plique-á-jour Butterfly Gold Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Plique-á-jour butterfly brooch; marked 750 Round-cut diamonds of approximately 1 carat, cabochon
Category

Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Plique-á-jour Butterfly Gold Brooch
Plique-á-jour Butterfly Gold Brooch
Free Shipping
W 2.13 in L 1 in
Art Nouveau 18K Yellow Gold Plique a Jour Enamel and Diamond Dragon Pendant
Located in Addison, TX
The pendant measures 1.5"x1.3" bail opening measures 6x4mm Unmarked, tested for solid 18K yellow gold Set with 1 old mine cut diamond in the dragons mouth, .15 carat Weighing 9.5g ...
Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel

René Lalique Art Nouveau Carved Horn and Plique-à-jour Enamel "Grenouilles" or F
By René Lalique
Located in New York, NY
symmetrical frogs meeting at their heads over a green enamel base, completed by plique-à-jour enamel shoulders
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Dome Rings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Art Nouveau Virgin Mary Pendant Plique À Jour Enamel 18 Kt Gold Pearls Diamonds
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This beautiful Art Nouveau pendant shows a relief portrait of the Virgin Mary amidst a fine plique
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Pearl, Diamond, Gold, Enamel, Platinum, 18k Gold

Plique-À-Jour Enamel And Glass Box
Located in New Orleans, LA
quintessential and luxurious example of Art Nouveau craftsmanship at its finest. Pliqué-à-jour achieved great
Category

20th Century French Art Nouveau Decorative Boxes

Materials

Enamel

Masiera Plique a Jour Brooch Pendant Necklace
By Masriera
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This Masieria Plique a Jour Pendant necklace depicts two Cherubs holding a pearl. The wings are
Category

1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Rare Plique a Jour Pendant, Hemmerle
By Hemmerle
Located in New York, NY
Rare Plique a Jour Pendant from the early part of the 20th Century by Hemmerle, Germany. Hemmerle
Category

Vintage 1910s German Jugendstil Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Opal, 10k Gold, Vermeil, Sterling Silver

Rare Plique a Jour Pendant, Hemmerle
Rare Plique a Jour Pendant, Hemmerle
Free Shipping
H 4 in W 0.75 in L 14.5 in
Masriera Y Carreras Plique a Jour Bracelet 18k
By Masriera
Located in North Hollywood, CA
plique a jour these tend to break or have some kind of damage to them. This bracelet is Plique a jour
Category

Vintage 1980s Spanish Art Nouveau Bangles

Materials

White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Louis Zorra Art Nouveau Diamond Amethyst Pearl and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch
By Louis Zorra
Located in New York, NY
An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique à jour brooch with diamond, amethysts and pearl by Louis
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Enamel

Meyle & Mayer 1910 Art Nouveau Gilt Silver Pendant With Enamel & Plique Au Jour
Located in Miami, FL
celebrated art nouveau designer, championed jewelry designer. Plique à jour Came from the French is
Category

Vintage 1910s German Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Chrysophrase, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Enamel

Italian Silver 3.75” 2.75” 3/16 “ Sodalite 800 Silver Plique a Jour Enamel Box
Located in Santa Monica, CA
Italian Silver 3.75” by 2.75” by 3/16 “ Deep Sodalite 800 Silver Plique a Jour Enamel Box 152.9
Category

Antique 1890s Italian Art Nouveau Boxes and Cases

Materials

Silver, Enamel

GEORGES LE TURCQ Art Nouveau Diamond Pearl Gold Plique-À-Jour Enamel Ring
Located in London, GB
Dessinateur et Fabricant, époque Art Nouveau Ring size: UK: L US: 5 3/4 EU: 50 7/8
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold

Plique-à-jour Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Flower Necklace
By Moira
Located in London, GB
A Moira Collection, plique-à-jour enamel flower necklace, with sky blue plique-à-jour enamel
Category

Early 2000s Art Nouveau Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Gold, Silver, Enamel

Masriera Diamond Pliqué-a-Jour Enamel 18k Yellow Gold
By Masriera
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This Art Nouveau style Pliqué à jour enamel diamond ring is an original by Spanish artist and
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Louis Comfort Tiffany Black Opal and Plique a Jour Brooch
By Louis Comfort Tiffany
Located in Riverdale, NY
Tiffany Arts and Crafts Era Black Opal and Plique a Jour Brooch circa 1910's by Louis Comfort
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Opal, 18k Gold

French Plique-a-jour Enameled 18k Gold Rose Pendant, Paris
Located in St. Catharines, ON
decorated with plique-a-jour (transparent) enamel in shades of rose and light blue colors, separated by gold
Category

2010s French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Gold, Enamel, Yellow Gold

1970s French Diamond Green Plique à Jour Enamel Brooch Pendant
Located in Valenza, IT
Stunning Art Nouveau style Brooch(it may be worn as a pendant as well): almost 2 Carat Top Quality
Category

Vintage 1970s French Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel

1970s French  Diamond Green Plique à Jour Enamel Brooch Pendant
1970s French  Diamond Green Plique à Jour Enamel Brooch Pendant
Free Shipping
W 0.99 in D 0.16 in L 1.86 in
MASRIERA 18K Gold Nymph Plique-à-Jour Brooch/Pendant with Diamonds
By Masriera
Located in Henderson, NV
From the house of the prolific Art Nouveau designer, Luis Masriera, comes a long tradition of
Category

20th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Edwardian Diamond and Plique-à-jour Enamel Pendant Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Created around 1910, this Edwardian pendant necklace is composed of diamonds, plique-à-jour enamel
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Platinum, Enamel

French Plique-à-jour 18K Gold Stained Glass Pendant, circa 1920's
Located in Venice, CA
When held up to the light, this beautiful 18k gold plique-à-jour pendant glows like a stained glass
Category

20th Century French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Egyptian Revival Plique A Jour Enamel Winged Scarab Insect Brooch Pin Art Deco
Located in New York, NY
A rare Art Deco Egyptian Revival masterpiece of a Winged Scarab Insect Brooch done in Plique a Jour
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Silver, Enamel

Masriera 18KT Gold & Plique-a-Jour Enamel Bangle Bracelet with .94Ct. Diamonds
By Luis Masriera
Located in New York, NY
From the house of the prolific Art Nouveau designer, Luis Masriera comes a long tradition of
Category

2010s Spanish Art Nouveau Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel

Masriera Diamond Enamel Plique-a-Jour Gold Engagement Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A special ring by the Spanish Barcelona based house of Masriera famous for their Art Nouveau style
Category

2010s Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Mario Buccellati Vintage Plique-à-jour 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet
By Mario Buccellati
Located in Miami, FL
lozenge motif enamel with Plique-a-jour enamel is green and cobalt blue. It bears the designer’s signature
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Art Nouveau Bangles

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

French Virgin Mary Plique A Jour Enamel 18K Yellow Gold Charm Pendant
Located in London, GB
An 18 karat (18K) yellow gold charm pendant set with plique a jour blue enamel designed as the
Category

20th Century French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold

Masriera 18k Yellow Gold Diamond Magic Flower Plique a Jour Enamel Necklace
By Masriera
Located in Troy, MI
Masriera is a company world-renowned for their amazing enamel work & Art Nouveau jewelry. The
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Estate 18K Solid Gold Earrings Green & Blue Plique-à-Jour Pierced Omega 14.20Gr
Located in Lauderdale by the Sea, FL
This is an elegant and very classy pair of solid 18K yellow gold plique-a-jour stained glass
Category

Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Masriera 18 Karat Yellow Gold Angel of the Morning Plique a Jour Enamel Ring
By Masriera
Located in Troy, MI
Masriera is a company world-renowned for their amazing enamel work & Art Nouveau reproductions
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

René Lalique Plique-à-jour Enamel and Natural Pearl Breton Lion and Seaweed Pend
By René Lalique
Located in New York, NY
Likely created circa 1903-1907, this plique-à-jour enamel and natural pearl pendant brooch with
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Natural Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Two Plique-a-Jour Enamel Ruby Butterfly Brooches 18 Karat Gold Moveable Wings
Located in New York, NY
, plique-à-jour was rediscovered in France circa 1900 and soared to new heights during the Art Nouveau
Category

20th Century Spanish Retro Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

  • 1
Get Updated with New Arrivals
Save "Art Nouveau Plique A Jour", and we’ll notify you when there are new listings in this category.

Art Nouveau Plique A Jour For Sale on 1stDibs

Surely you’ll find the exact art nouveau plique a jour you’re seeking on 1stDibs — we’ve got a vast assortment for sale. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Enamel, this item was constructed with great care. In our selection of items, you can find a vintage example as well as a contemporary version. If you’re looking for an art nouveau plique a jour from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 19th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. An art nouveau plique a jour from Masriera, René Lalique and Marcus & Co. — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. An art nouveau plique a jour of any era or style can lend versatility to your look, but a version featuring Diamond, from our inventory of 63, is particularly popular. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes rose cut and old european cut alternatives. Finding an art nouveau plique a jour for sale for women should be easy, but there are 35 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a Art Nouveau Plique A Jour?

Prices for an art nouveau plique a jour can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $400 and can go as high as $225,000, while this accessory, on average, fetches $7,500.

A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.