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Art Deco 3 Carat Diamond and Ruby Tablet or Plaque Ring in Platinum, Circa 1925

$11,800
£8,958.36
€10,246.45
CA$16,486.31
A$18,336.38
CHF 9,574.69
MX$223,134.20
NOK 122,283.35
SEK 114,680.21
DKK 76,473.19
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About the Item

This tablet (aka shield) ring is quintessential Art Deco: the strong geometric pattern with open channels, the varied gem-setting techniques, the way components appear to lap over and under each other, the use of colored gems to create linear accents -- these are all hallmarks of Style Moderne. Geometry -- and the way the eye looks for patterns -- is set to work with a vengeance. The overall pattern is symmetrical left to right but not top to bottom, which really adds to the interest. The eye initially sees a square, but then picks up circles, triangles, arcs, lines, banners and channels. Beyond the impressive design, this ring presents nice openwork on the sides and textbook-quality azuring. The stones consist of 38 diamonds and 18 rubies. The center stone is very clean, European-cut, bezel-set and we estimate the weight at 0.90 carats. The five subdominant stones (corners and banner) range from 0.20 carats to 0.60 carats. Two of the large corner stones have tiny chips (visible with a loupe) and another has a black crystal in the middle of its table. We opted not to replace these stones because the cuts are beautiful and the flaws aren't noticeable. These stones are European-cut, pavé-set with milgrain. The remaining 32 stones are tiny single cuts, ranging from 0.005 to .01 carats. Note that four of the smaller stones are replacements of missing or damaged stones. We used single cuts from another vintage piece. The total estimated diamond weight is 3.06 carats. The step-cut, channel-set rubies are probably flame-fusion synthetics, as this ring dates from the heyday of synthesized rubies and sapphires, when even the finest jewelers were relying on these clean, easy-to-match stones, especially when used as linear accents, as they are here. The rubies on either side of the center banner are about .02 carats each and the remainder are about 0.035 carats each for a total weight of about a half carat. Note that one of the rubies (second to the right of the center stone, with the banner facing down) has a chipped corner. We didn't replace it because the chip can't be detected with the naked eye and removing it would require finding a color-matched replacement (difficult) and a lot of prying (risky). The band is 1.2mm thick and 1.5mm wide. Currently the ring is a size 7, but we will resize to your specifications. Flange to flange, the face of the ring is almost an inch wide, so we don't recommend resizing smaller than 6 because the size and curvature of the ring's face demands some physical real estate (i.e., finger) to be comfortable. The inside of the band is stamped PT for platinum, but only the very tops of the letters are still visible. There is no visible maker's mark. This ring weighs 11.8 grams, of which an estimated 0.7 grams can be reasonably attributed to the stones. Other than the chipped stones, and the four diamond replacements, we should add that the band shows the usual surface scratches plus the telltale signs of at least one previous resizing, but these will be substantially corrected with a final polish before the ring meets its new owner. An appraisal for insurance purposes is included.
  • Ring Size:
    7 US, Resizable
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    3.06 ct
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    Circa 1925
  • Condition:
    Additions or alterations made to the original: Four of the smaller outer diamonds have been replaced. Polished. Wear consistent with age and use. Resizing scars visible on the band; these can be removed at buyer's request. One of the rubies (near the center stone) is chipped. Two of the larger corner diamonds are chipped. Please read more in description.
  • Seller Location:
    Sherman Oaks, CA
  • Reference Number:
    Seller: FD00331stDibs: LU167317697122

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