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Mid-Century "Cage" Ring Set with 15.7mm Black Tahitian Pearl in Rose Gold
About the Item
This ring, probably made in the 1960's or earlier, came to us set with a big blue topaz and an 18 karat yellow gold overlay. Eytan Brandes polished off all the yellow (tiresome!) except on the inside, where time and abrasion will do the job. Then he replaced the blue topaz with an absolutely beautiful, very large (almost 16mm!) and very clean, near-round black Tahitian pearl.
This pearl is from George Hajjar of Seven Seas Pearls in downtown Los Angeles. There isn't much George doesn't know about Tahitian and South Sea pearls; some of the most exquisite and expensive jewelry available today features pearls sourced by Mr. Hajjar.
But George always has time for small fry like us, and he helped us pick a gigantic pearl with plenty of shmutz on one end (the end that's set inside the ring), but absolutely stunning everywhere else. Basically, if all of this pearl was as smooth and clean as its exposed hemisphere, the ring would get priced right out of Fun Cocktail Ring territory and well into scary I-Feel-Nervous-Wearing-this-In-Public territory.
Having said all that, there are two very small flaws on the exposed surface -- a tiny (and abbreviated) ridgeline, and a very subtle dimple that's only obvious because the skin of this pearl is otherwise so perfect.
The ring is a great showcase for such a superb pearl. It appears to be floating in a ring of rose gold, though it's actually drilled and securely mounted on a wire that Eytan soldered into the back.
The sides of the "cage" are raised high and defined with twisty and straight bars, and the cage is set on a bold four-bar shank that fuses into one in the back.
Currently, this ring is a size 6. The ring can be resized; let us know your size before you buy because we may be able to do the resizing for free depending on your needs.
Weights & Measurements:
Face diameter: 24mm (almost 1")
Pearl: 15.7mm
Band width (in back): 4.1mm
Band thickness: 1mm
Front elevation: 21mm
Pearl weight: 5.46 grams
Ring weight: 15.5 grams
Note: This ring is in good condition and ready to wear, but there is a faint seam on the annular face of the ring, which you can see in the video and some of the photos. It's deep enough into the gold that repairing it would involve filling a gap, and that would involve precisely matching the ring's rose gold color, and since the seam is right smack on the front of the ring, Eytan weighed the visibility of a gold mismatch and a faint seam, and opted to keep the seam as-is. It's completely unnoticeable as soon as the ring is more than a foot away from your eyeball.
- Ring Size:6 US, Resizable
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:15.5 g
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1960
- Condition:Additions or alterations made to the original: This ring came to us with a blue topaz and 18 karat yellow gold plating. We removed both and added a post for a new pearl. Polished. There are vestiges of the yellow gold plating inside the ring. (You can see this in some of the photos.). Since polishing removes gold, we opted to leave the unexposed yellow gold in place, since it will wear down on its own in time.
- Seller Location:Sherman Oaks, CA
- Reference Number:Seller: FD03831stDibs: LU1673116640222
Resizing is available.
About the Seller
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- ShippingRetrieving quote...Shipping from: Sherman Oaks, CA
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