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Rhodochrosite Bombe Cocktail Ring in Yellow Gold with Diamonds, Circa 1950

About the Item

This unusual ring, undoubtedly a custom piece, features a fluted wedge of rhodochrosite. A beautiful, rasberry-colored stone, rhodochrosite only came on the market in the 1940s with an important discovery in Argentina. The stone is "wrapped" in twisted gold wire, then flanked by bands of white gold pavé-set with clean, tiny, single-cut diamonds, each stone separated by little hand-cut ridges. The sides of the ring are finished in polished yellow good. It's an amazing piece of workmanship featuring a very unusual stone. MEASUREMENTS: > The front of the ring is 0.90" tall and 0.80" wide (23mm x 20mm). > The front elevation is about 16mm. > The snazzy cutout band tapers to a comfortable 3.8mm width in the back. WEIGHTS: The rings weighs 12.8 grams. The weight of the rhodochrosite is difficult to estimate because it's such an odd shape, but we think it's somewhere between 20 and 25 carats. The diamond weight is approximately 0.08 carats. SIZING: Speaking of resizing, currently, this ring is a size 5, but we will resize at no charge for full-price buyers. Resizing is otherwise negotiable. MARKS: There are "585" and "14K" purity marks, but unfortunately no maker's or assayer's mark to identify the creator or birthplace of this ring. CONDITION: Rhodochrosite is very soft and not generally an ideal stone for rings unless it's well protected. Here, the jeweler has "wrapped" the stone in twisted gold wire, which not only looks cool, it also protects the stone by limiting the amount of uninterrupted surface area. Still, the stone is not in perfect condition. You can see from our photos there's a light fissure across the middle of the stone. It's not detectable without close inspection, and we don't know if it was there before the stone was cut, or if it happened as a result of cutting, or if it occurred after setting. It's very shallow and we're confident the stone is secure. Another point about this ring's condition: it's a little lopsided. Since the ring is custom-made to match a stone, and the stone is hand-cut and not perfectly symmetrical, the ring, which encases the stone and it's asymmetry, basically "carries it forward." Again, this "defect" isn't really noticeable unless you're making a close inspection. We find it charming and all of a piece with a bespoke vintage ring, but if you're looking for cookie- cutter perfection, this is not the ring for you.

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