This year’s Triple Crown kicks off on May 2, starting with the Kentucky Derby, followed by the Preakness Stakes and ending with the Belmont Stakes. At these races, the horses aren’t the only attraction. From vibrant suits and dresses to over-the-top hats, spectators’ fashion choices offer stiff competition for our attention. But beyond the bold sartorial statements, we have our eye on slightly more under-the-radar accessories: equestrian jewels.
The Victorian and Edwardians eras were an exciting time for this type of jewelry, spawning styles like brooches in the form of diamond-encrusted horses spurred on by tiny enameled jockeys and stickpin jockeys with carved moonstone faces and gem-set caps. Not surprisingly, the British royal family has a long history of sporting equestrian-themed jewels, including Queen Elizabeth II, the Princess Royal, Queen Camilla and even Princess Charlotte.
From cufflinks and pendants to brooches and bracelets, equestrian jewelry projects an appealing playfulness. Even those who’ve never sat on a horse can thrill to a galloping thoroughbred — and to its representation in precious metals and gems. In that spirit, we’re highlighting jewelry that celebrates all things horse racing, from horseshoes to the jockeys who, in their brightly colored and patterned silks, make racing so stylish.
Gucci Jockey Hat Cuff
Gucci is known for equine-associated motifs. Horse bits, in particular, bedeck its handbags, clothing and jewelry. So, this 1970s silver cuff with an enameled jockey cap, stumbled upon while scrolling through 1stDibs, was a delightful surprise.
Alabaster & Wilson Horse and Jockey Brooch
This diamond, gold and enamel brooch was created by Alabaster & Wilson in the 1950s. A similar piece by the British jeweler was gifted to Queen Elizabeth II on the occasion of her 90th birthday, in 2016.
Horseshoe Ring
The horseshoe has long been thought to bring good luck. This sweet Victorian-era ring ups the karma quotient with its lucky seven old-mine-cut diamonds.
David Webb Horse-Head Cufflinks
David Webb was famed for his whimsical animal jewelry, and these gold-and-enamel cufflinks, with a horse head on one end and a jockey cap on the other, are just the right amount of fanciful.
Alex Jona Horseshoe-Nail Ring
Shoes are attached to a horses’ hooves with a special type of nail. Alex Jona turned this utilitarian item into sculptural rings, like this 18-karat-gold jewel, in which the nail encircles the finger, its end wrapping around the head in the shape of a horseshoe.
Jockey Stickpin
Like a tiny sculpture, this circa 1910 stickpin depicts a jockey with a face carved from moonstone and racing silks rendered in enamel and embellished with rubies and diamonds.
Hermès Galop Bracelet
Hermès started out offering equestrian accessories, and the company still celebrates that heritage. This sterling-silver Galop bangle bracelet, which features a pair of racehorse heads, makes a statement that feels fresh today, although it was hails from the 1980s.
