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Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron (1900–83) may not be a household name, but anyone who knows jewelry will recognize her as one of the industry’s 20th-century greats. She was born Suzanne Vuillerme in Saint-Claude, France, a center of the French diamond-cutting industry. Displaying an early talent for design, Belperron studied at the Besançon École des Beaux-Arts before moving to Paris and landing her first job as a model-maker and designer at French jewelry house Boivin when she was 19. Within a few years, she was named codirector — a meteoric rise that would jump-start her legacy.

In 1932, Belperron left Boivin to partner with gemstone and natural pearl dealer Bernard Herz, with whom she would develop her distinct avant-garde aesthetic. Unlike most jewelry designers of the day, Belperron decided against signing her works, feeling so confident in her uniqueness that she declared, “My style is my signature.” Her exceptionally dramatic works were nothing like the angular Art Deco pieces that were popular at the time, taking on large-scale sculptural forms and featuring various design motifs from cultures around the world. The designer was a favorite of couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, who modeled her Belperron jewelry in Vogue in 1933. (Belperron jewels would grace the cover of Vogue Paris in 1934.) She would also count Diana Vreeland and Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, among her fans.

World War II changed everything. When the Germans occupied Paris, the Jewish Herz transferred the company to Belperron in order to preserve the business. Both would later be arrested by the Nazis. Belperron was released; Herz was sent to the Drancy internment camp. He later died at Auschwitz, despite Belperron’s best efforts to get him released.

Belperron kept the firm going during the war and after its end Herz’s son, Jean — a released prisoner of war — became Belperron’s equal partner per Bernard Herz’s final wishes. The two would work together under the name Jean Herz-Suzanne Belperron for the rest of her career. In 1963, Belperron was awarded the rank of Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, and she quietly retired in 1974.

In 1987, there was a resurgence of interest in Belperron’s work, thanks to the auction of the Duchess of Windsor’s personal collection, which included at least 16 pieces by the designer. In 1999, Ward Landrigan of Verdura acquired both the rights to the Belperron name as well as a design archive of thousands of drawings, leading to the relaunch of the brand in 2015 with a new salon on Fifth Avenue in New York.

Find Suzanne Belperron rings, brooches and other jewelry on 1stDibs today.

Average Sold Price
$600
Styles
Suzanne Belperron Chalcedony and Diamond Flower Brooch circa 1945 Art Deco
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
Art Deco Chalcedony and Diamond Demi-Marguerite Brooch by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1945 A brooch composed of a stylized carved chalcedony flower set with diamonds; mounted in...
Category

1940s Art Deco Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Chalcedony, Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1935 Art Deco Amethyst and Chrysoprase Ring
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
A ring bezel-set in the center with a modified step-cut amethyst, the shoulders and sides cascading with decreasing lines of bezel-set rectangular cabochon chrysoprase; mounted in si...
Category

1930s Art Deco Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Amethyst, Chrysophrase, Silver

Suzanne Belperron Pair of Diamond and Gold Clip Brooches Paris C. 1945 Art Deco
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
Suzanne Belperron Pair of Diamond and Gold Clip Brooches Paris C. 1945 Art Deco Stock #F4184 Pair of Diamond and Gold Clips by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1945 A pair of clip b...
Category

1940s Art Deco Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Diamond, Gold, Platinum

Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1950 Geometric Diamond Ring
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
A ring designed with a central bezel-set cushion diamond sided by intersecting platinum planes set with square and rectangular diamonds; mounted in platinum, with French assay marks ...
Category

1930s Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

  • Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1950 Geometric Diamond Ring
  • Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1950 Geometric Diamond Ring
  • Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1950 Geometric Diamond Ring
  • Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1950 Geometric Diamond Ring
Free Shipping
W 1 in. D .63 in. L 1 in.
Suzanne Belperron Emerald and Diamond Ear Clips, Paris, circa 1970
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
A pair of ear clips of boteh (paisley flower) design, set in the centers with pear-shaped emeralds, framed by diamonds mounted in sliver, within hammered yellow gold settings; mounte...
Category

1970s Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Platinum

Suzanne Belperron Convertible Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Pendant Necklace
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in Boston, MA
This extraordinary mid-century jewel by Suzanne Belperron consists of a lyre-shaped emerald and diamond detachable pendant brooch suspended from two rows of cultured pearls intersper...
Category

20th Century Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Platinum

Suzanne Belperron Paris circa 1936 Ruby, Rose Quartz, Enamel "Fleur" Brooch
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
A brooch composed of a rose quartz flower head centering a cabochon ruby with black enamel and cabochon ruby pistils; mounted in grey and yellow gold with French assay marks; • Maker...
Category

1930s Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Quartz, Ruby, 18k Gold, Enamel

René Boivin Paris Art Deco Platinum and Diamond “Pineapple” Ear Clips, 1944
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
Pair of Art Moderne Platinum and Diamond “Pineapple” Ear Clips by Juliette Moutard for René Boivin, Paris, 1944 A pair of ear clips of stylized pineapple design composed of cushion a...
Category

1940s Art Deco Vintage Suzanne Belperron

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

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Suzanne Belperron Sellers

Ricky Serbin Haute
4.8 / 5
Joseph Saidian and Sons
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Macklowe Gallery Jewelry
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Nadine Krakov Collection
4.9 / 5
Tiina Smith Jewelry
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Suzanne Belperron jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs

Find a range of Suzanne Belperron watches & jewelry available on 1stDibs. These unique items were designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. When shopping for Suzanne Belperron's most stylish antique or vintage jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Suzanne Belperron diamond jewelry & watches can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look. This collection contains 16 pieces as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. Sapphire and diamond are among the most popular styles of Suzanne Belperron's jewelry and watches available on 1stDibs. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th Century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider jewelry & watches by Luise Gioielli, Rochfort Fine Jewellery and Stephen Russell. Prices for Suzanne Belperron watches and jewelry can vary depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. Price for these items starts at $70,000 and tops out at $375,000, while pieces like these can sell for $125,000 on average..