Couture DiorDesigner WesternGermanyMaxMuller CitrineCrystal Gold Choker Necklace

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About the Item

While making similar mid-century haute-couture costume-jewelry necklaces for Christian Dior, designer Max Muller who was based near Kaufbeuren, Western Germany, created this unsigned gold-tone choker collar with a safety chain featuring faux-diamond mixed-cut brown and colorless crystals. He was internationally known for his historic-replicas for the film industry. So today, some of the largest collections of his rare work were acquired by female movie stars, such as Sophia Lauren. The choker's precise symmetrical construction, invisible clasp on the underside, and distinct safety-chain match elements of other unsigned pieces by Muller among sets authenticated by trusted secondary-market jewelry dealers, who have sold 20th-century masterpieces to leading international retailers for decades. Given the designer's atypical choice of a gold-tone setting featuring clear crystals, the resulting sparkly pale-yellow reflections enhance the warm tone of the faux-citrine crystal baguettes that encircle the outer part of the necklace. This conjures an appetizing image of dozens of milk-chocolate bonbons on unwrapped gold foil. The quality of crystals and complexity of settings is on par during that time period with U.S-based Henry Schreiner or Paris-based Roger Jean Pierre. The extremely rare choker is in very good condition, while clear glue of several millimeters was added to the reverse by a former owner to reinforce an outer link on the lower left side. This is not even visible with a jeweler's loupe on the front. Nevertheless, this flaw is reflected in the listing price, while similar Christian Dior crystal collars are comparably priced at twice as much.

Creator:
Max Müller Kaufbeuren
Metal:
Gold,Gilt Metal
Stone:
Crystal,Brown Diamond
Stone Cut:
Mixed Cut
Dimensions:
Width: 0.79 in (20 mm)Depth: 0.2 in (5 mm)Diameter: 5.32 in (135 mm)Length: 17.33 in (440 mm)
Style:
Modernist
Place of Origin:
Germany
Period:
Mid-20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
1950s-1960s
Condition:
Repaired: A former owner added glue to reinforce a spot on the reverse lower left side, which is difficult to notice on the back without magnification and not visible from the front. Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Chicago, IL
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3244218222002

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