Freeform & Rose Cut Black Spinel in 18 Karat Yellow Gold & Ruby Cocktail Ring

This delicious ring by Eytan Brandes was actually completed back in 2019, but it was originally set with an opaque green stone. We liked the way it looked, but the stone was problematic since we weren't sure if it was green agate, jadeite or nephrite and once it was set, we couldn't test it (oops). After a lot of backy forthy, Eytan decided it was too weird to be listing a ring with an unidentified "green stone," so he popped it out* and decided it would be fun to contrast the top quality, sparkling pink rubies with their cousin from the wrong side of the tracks: a rough ruby. This kind of ruby is completely natural and completely loaded with every flaw under the sun: silk, uneven color, spider veins, milky streaks, fissures, fractures, you name it. We love rough rubies (and rough sapphires too). Yes, they can be hard to cut (our gemcutter does NOT love them) because you have to find enough material that isn't threatened by internal fractures, but once they're successfully cut into cabochons, they polish up beautifully and, like all rubies, they are reliably durable. Even though they're effectively opaque (because they're so chock full o'flaws), they have a lustrous depth and character that you just won't find with either naturally opaque OR transparent stones. So, having said all that, we reintroduce the Marquee Ring...

Story time! Eytan Brandes was asked to make an engagement ring with a bulgy band and a setting for a nice two carat diamond. When the ring came back from the caster, the band was about half as thick as the band he'd designed. This kind of thing happens occasionally; usually the undersized, or oversized, or upside-down, or backwards, or misspelled, or otherwise misbegotten bauble just goes into the melting pot and we all move on. In this case, however, Eytan liked the ring's frankly unbalanced look -- its giant center basket hovering over the whisper-thin band. It doesn't work as an engagement ring, but it makes for a cool solitaire. He therefore set the band with ten itty-bitty diamonds and, for the center, he set a delicious, richly hued rhodolite garnet. The diamonds are natural (earth-mined), untreated little brightlings -- G-H color and VS1-2 clarity. They're full-cut and set in little raised pits spaced evenly across the front half of the ring; discreet prongs hold the stones in place. The stone basket in the center of the ring is cleverly formed by the four triple prongs that reach up from the bottom of the basket to grab the four corners of the center stone -- a gorgeous rhodolite garnet in deep red with chocolatey undertones and flashes of pink. It's nicely cut with a huge table and a modified Swiss-cut pavilion. We like the way the ring looks on its own, but we also like it beefed up a bit, so we're including two twisty bands that stack nicely with the garnet -- giving the wearer either option. Eytan made these bands ages ago; they were just sitting in the safe until The Boss realized they'd make a great set with his garnet ring. And they lived happily ever after! Measurements & Details: Size: Currently a size 5.5, we will resize all three rings at no charge for full-price buyers. Resizing is otherwise negotiable. Gold: The garnet ring is 14 karat gold. The twisty bands are 18 karat...

This cool, architectural ring by Eytan Brandes features two rows of channel-set diamonds sweeping in opposing arcs above and below a straight channel of rubies. Lots of color, con...

Many of our customers bring us their old jewelry to be melted down so that we can apply the scrap gold credit to the price of their new custom pieces by Eytan Brandes. During this process, Eytan plucks out the precious stones and sorts them according to a system nobody but he understands. This ring was fashioned by Eytan specifically to use up his pile of extracted yellow diamonds, all taken from various pre-owned pieces over a period of around 25 years. They're in various shades ranging from pale yellow to fancy yellow to golden yellow-brown. (And there's two small champagne-colored diamonds thrown in the mix, just to keep everyone on their toes.) This is a mish-mash of round stones -- all different sizes, colors and clarities. Most are full (i.e., brilliant) cut, but a few are mixed cuts. They're pavé-set on an oxidized (black) landscape over the slightly concave front of a naturalistic and freeform 18 karat yellow gold ring. Eytan calls it his Lava Pool ring...

Crafted by Lagos, This 18KT Yellow Gold ring centers an oval cabochon pink tourmaline. There are 20 round brilliant diamonds surrounding the center tourmaline, and a ring of black o...

An 8 x 10 mm brown-black cushion shaped rose-cut diamond is set vertically surrounded by a double row of handset "jawan" granulation on a semi-flat tapered matte-finish shank with si...

Mesmerizing baguette-shaped ruby and brilliant round rubies total weight 4.15 carat set in black gold.

Impressive cocktail ring, of the highest quality of craftsmanship, handmade in Margherita Burgener family workshop. The ring is centering a oval rubellite tourmaline, all around a li...