De Grisogono Matassa

Lebanese-Italian jeweler Fawaz Gruosi (b. 1952) founded the Geneva-based De Grisogono in 1993, naming the luxury jewelry company after his mother, who had been the Marquise de Grisogono. He wanted a name that would conjure elegance and rarity. Gruosi would soon have his own aristocratic nickname — “King of Black Diamonds” — for the stones that made his jewelry house famous.

Born in Beirut, Gruosi grew up in Florence and as a teenager got a job with the Florentine jeweler Torrini and went on to work for luxury jewelry houses Harry Winston and Bulgari in the years that followed. When De Grisogono was established, most jewelers favored the simplicity of white diamonds and platinum. Gruosi was more interested in color and diamonds with character. Along with the then-undervalued black diamonds, he designed vibrant pieces that exuberantly mixed stones like emeralds, sapphires, amber, pink opal and jade.

De Grisogono’s audacious pieces bedecked with black diamonds captured the fancy of well-heeled buyers in the 1990s, leading to the brand’s meteoric rise to fame. It entered the world of luxury watches in 2000 with the Instrumento Uno for men, which led to the development of the Crazy Skull in 2015. The playful made-to-order timepiece could be outfitted with up to 45 carats of gems.

Since the early aughts, De Grisogono has become synonymous with A-listers who donned the jeweler’s wares on red carpets; the company was also known for hosting an annual party at the Cannes Film Festival. De Grisogono made headlines in 2017 by partnering with Christie’s to sell a necklace made with a dazzling 163.41-carat emerald-cut diamond for $33.7 million — a record price for a D-color flawless diamond.

In January 2020, the jewelry house filed for bankruptcy. Today, Gruosi continues to sell his intricately designed decadent pieces from his namesake boutique in London.

Find a range of De Grisogono jewelry on 1stDibs, including necklaces, rings and other accessories.

Antique and vintage rings have long held a special place in the hearts of fine jewelry lovers all over the world.

No matter their origin or specific characteristics, rings are timeless, versatile accessories. They’ve carried deep meaning since at least the Middle Ages, when diamond rings symbolized strength and other kinds of rings were worn to signify romantic feelings or to denote an affiliation with a religious order. Rings have also forever been emblematic of eternity.

Over time, rings have frequently taken the form of serpents, which have long been associated with eternal life, health and renewal. Italian luxury jewelry house Bulgari has become famous for its widely loved Serpenti motif, for example, and its Serpenti ring, like the other accessories in the collection, began as an homage to jewelry of the Roman and Hellenistic eras. The serpent is now a popular motif in fine jewelry. Jewelry devotees have long pined for rings adorned with reptiles, thanks to antique Victorian rings — well, specifically, Queen Victoria’s illustrious engagement ring, which took the form of a gold snake set with rubies, diamonds and an emerald (her birthstone). Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal.

Engagement rings, which are reliably intimidating to shop for, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings. 

The most collectible antique engagement rings and vintage engagement rings are those from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign), antique Georgian rings, be they engagement rings or otherwise, are also coveted by collectors. Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. The late-1700s paste jewelry was a predecessor to what we now call fashion or costume jewelry. 

The Art Nouveau movement (1880–1910) brought with it rings inspired by the natural world. Antique Art Nouveau rings might feature depictions of winged insects and fauna as well as women, who were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized, frequently with long flowing hair. Art Deco jewelry, on the other hand, which originated during the 1920s and ’30s, is by and large “white jewelry.” White metals, primarily platinum, were favored over yellow gold in the design of antique Art Deco rings and other accessories as well as geometric motifs, with women drawn to the era’s dazzling cocktail rings in particular.

Whether you’re hunting down a chunky classic for a Prohibition-themed cocktail party or seeking a clean contemporary design to complement your casual ensemble, find an exquisite collection of antique, new and vintage rings on 1stDibs.