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Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Italian, American, 1935-1984

In a jewelry-design career spanning just over two decades, Aldo Cipullo created a portfolio of iconic pieces. And decades after his death, his most famous, the Cartier Love bracelet, remains a best seller.

A life devoted to jewelry seemed preordained for Cipullo, who was born in Naples in 1935 and raised in Rome. His father, Giuseppe, manufactured costume jewelry, and Cipullo, the eldest of five siblings, began selling goods for the family business at age 15.

In 1959, Cipullo left postwar Italy for New York City. He had found the right place at the right time to ply his prodigious talent and navigated between some of the most prestigious jewelers situated on the city’s most glittering thoroughfares, 57th Street and Fifth Avenue. Cipullo’s first stop was the workshop of David Webb, a favorite among the mid-century beau monde. Webb, who was one of America’s most influential and best-loved jewelry designers, became a mentor for the new arrival, advising him to call himself a designer despite his bench jeweler job description.

Tiffany & Co. came next. Cipullo alighted at the design studio in 1964, becoming — along with Sonia Younis, Don Berg and Donald Claflin — part of a youthquake that brought fresh ideas to the stately American brand.

At Tiffany, Cipullo came into his own as a designer with an original point of view, developing a facility across a broad swathe of motifs and inspirations that included lifelike florals, stylized African animals and masks, modern geometries — and hardware, expressed in a series of key-shaped brooches that offer the first glimpse of a theme he would return to later. By the end of the 1960s, he was designing some of Tiffany’s crown jewels, pieces in its Blue Book high-jewelry collection, often using lapis, coral or turquoise. These colorful opaque gems were among the materials that would become hallmarks of his work.

According to the designer’s brother Renato Cipullo — a coauthor with jewelry journalist Vivienne Becker on Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern (Assouline) — when the term of a two-year contract with Tiffany neared its end in 1969, the brand passed on a gold bracelet design Aldo presented to the house. Though Tiffany wasn’t ready to raise Cipullo’s profile, another suitor would soon pick up the piece and give it, and in turn Cipullo, a major public platform. He struck a deal with Michael Thomas, president of Cartier New York, to carry some of his designs — including the new bracelet — exclusively.

Becker recounts the history of the Cartier Love bracelet in the book: Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. The Love bracelet combined hardware with elements of symbolic Victorian jewelry and the chastity belt, plus the ritual of meaningful adornment.

The bracelet, along with its designer, was just the tonic that Cartier needed at the start of the 1970s, a moment when the venerable brand was seeking an injection of youthful jet-set glamour. Cipullo’s winning streak with the brand continued, even as he designed for his own studio, Aldo Cipullo Ltd., which he established in the early part of the decade.

The Love design — which also yielded a ring and a necklace — was not Cipullo’s sole hardware-inspired jewelry for Cartier; his unisex Juste un Clou (“just a nail”) bracelet takes the form of a curved nail. When he died, at the age of 48, from a double heart attack, Cipullo was only getting started. Nevertheless, he left a profound legacy.

Find vintage Aldo Cipullo jewelry today on 1stDibs.

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Creator: Aldo Cipullo
Aldo Cipullo 1970 New York Quilted Clip Earrings 18Kt Yellow Gold with Diamonds
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Miami, FL
A pair of Earrings designed by Aldo Cipullo (1942-1984). Great quilted pair, created in New York city at the atelier of Aldo Cipullo, back in the 1970's. This pair of clips-earrings...
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1970s American Modernist Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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Aldo Cipullo South Sea Pearl Carnelian Gold Earrings
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Pair of large circa 1970s earrings by Aldo Cipullo, set in 18k gold, with center 16.5mm South Sea pearls and carnelian. Earrings are 29mm in diameter. Marked: A. Cipullo. Weight - 58...
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1970s Italian Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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CARTIER - ALDO CIPULLO Gold and Carnelian Cuff Links
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Cartier cufflinks by Aldo Cipullo in 18kt gold set with pyramid cabochons of carnelian. Each marked Aldo Cipullo 1972 and registration numbers. One marked Cartier, the other marked I...
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Italian Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Aldo Cippulo 1970s Onyx Lapis Gold Earrings
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Pair of 18k yellow gold earrings, designed by Aldo Cippulo in circa 1974, set with black onyx and lapis lazuli. Earrings are 33mm x 26mm, weigh 35.7 grams. Marked: A.Cipullo, 1974.
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1970s Italian Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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Aldo Cipullo Coral Onyx Gold Earrings
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in New York, NY
Pair of large 18k gold earrings by Aldo Cipullo, crafted in 1974, with onyx and coral. Earrings measure 35mm x 29mm. Marked: A.Cipullo, 18k, 1974, 32036. Weight - 35.4 grams.
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1970s Italian Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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Aldo Cipullo Mandarin Citrine Unicorn Clip
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in San Antonio, TX
18k gold and enamel clip brooch with 16.75 carat pear-shaped mandarin citrine pear-shaped drop and Eyes of 2 marquise shaped emeralds.Signed A. Cipullo, 1974. Pendant detachable.
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1970s American Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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Citrine, Emerald, 18k Gold

Aldo Cipullo 18K Yellow Gold Onyx Doorknocker Earrings
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Located in Houston, TX
Aldo Cipullo doorknocker style earrings in 18K yellow gold and carved onyx. Marked "A. Cipullo 18k" on the back. They measure 1 3/8 inches by 1 1/2 inches, and are a clip-on style.
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Aldo Cipullo Onyx & Gold Ring
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Sleek and chic gold and onyx ring. Made and signed by ALDO CIPULLO. An open band that wraps around the finger, with a smooth rounded beveled inlay of onyx. Size 6 and can be cust...
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1970s American Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold

Aldo Cipullo Gold and Diamond Noose Charm
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in New York, NY
Figural "noose" charm, set with a faceted diamond. Made and signed by ALDO CIPULLO. 18K yellow gold. 1 1/3" x 1/2." Can be worn as a charm or pendant. A most unique and compel...
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1970s American Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

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Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold

Aldo Chipullo Gold, Enamel, and Diamond Tiffany & Co. Brooch
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in New York, NY
This 18kt Gold, Enamel, and Diamond Brooch is signed Aldo Cipullo, Tiffany & Co. It is designed as a large-horned quadruped with enamel and diamonds, 31.1 dwt, lg. 2 3/4 inches. No...
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1970s Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Vintage Cipullo Earrings 18k Gold Coral Black Onyx 1972
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Signature vintage earrings created by Aldo Cipullo in 1972. Made of black onyx, coral and 18 karat yellow gold. Sharp geometrical design and dramatic color combination are the highl...
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1970s American Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Materials

Coral, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Aldo Cipullo Gold Diamond Clip Earrings
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Austin, TX
A simple and elegant pair of 18k yellow gold and diamond snake form earrings by Aldo Cipullo, circa 1970's. The earrings shaped like coiled snakes, the heads studded with diamonds....
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1970s American Modern Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

1970s Aldo Cipullo Carnelian Crystal Gold Earrings
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in New York, NY
18k gold large earrings by Aldo Cipullo, with crystal and sugarloaf cut carnelian. Earrings are 32mm in diameter. Marked: Aldo Cipullo, 18k, 1974. Weight - 47.3 grams.
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1970s Italian Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Materials

Carnelian, Crystal, Gold

Aldo Cipullo 1970s Lapis Gold Cufflinks Stud Set
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Lambertville, NJ
1970s 18k gold cufflinks and studs set by Aldo Cipullo, with lapis lazuli. Cufflink top is 25 x 10mm, stud is 15 x 11mm. Weight - 34.3 grams. Marked: Cipullo, 18k.
Category

20th Century Italian Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

1973 Aldo Cipullo Rock Crystal Lapis Gold Earrings
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in New York, NY
A pair of elegant earrings designed by remarkable Italian designer Aldo Cipullo in 1973, presenting rock-crystal and lapis lazuli on a fine 18kt yellow gold mounting.
Category

1970s Italian Vintage Aldo Cipullo Jewelry

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

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Aldo Cipullo jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs

1stDibs offers a range of Aldo Cipullo jewelry and watches. These unique items were designed with extraordinary care, often using 18k gold. While looking for the most stylish antique or vintage Aldo Cipullo jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Aldo Cipullo lapis lazuli jewelry & watches can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look, from our inventory of 2. This collection contains 3 pieces as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th Century. Many customers also consider jewelry & watches by Kiersten Elizabeth, Maison Gripoix for Chanel and Valentino if you’re looking for additional options. Prices for Aldo Cipullo watches and jewelry can vary depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. The price for these items starts at $9,400 and tops out at $9,900, while pieces like these can sell for $9,650 on average..

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