Bueche-Girod 18k Full Gold, Ruby & Diamond Cocktail Watch, London, circa 1960s

During the 1950s through the 1970s, the mechanisms created by Swiss watchmaker Bueche Girod were so admired that other jewelry houses such as Cartier — by then already quite revered for its striking timepieces — sourced cases and manual winding movements from the company. The brand also produced watches for Bulova and Universal Genève. While the fruit of these collaborations can be found on the secondhand market by enthusiasts of vintage watches, Bueche Girod-branded watches are scarce, making them highly collectible today.

In 1947, in Biel/Bienne, Vital Bueche founded Bueche Girod, combining his last name with that of his wife, Edwige Girod, for the company name. Over the years, the brand’s brilliant Swiss engineering garnered international acclaim, and its fussy detailing lured in customers, too.

Today’s collectors of shaped watches will find lots to love in vintage Bueche Girod designs and jewelry watch lovers are likely in the know about the manufacturer, which frequently adorned its bezels and dials with gemstones in an attempt to target the high-end American market. Its 18K gold, diamond-encrusted ladies watches epitomized luxury and catered to the very social cocktail party set of the mid-20th century.

Bueche Girod also has a history of being a favorite brand among the rich and famous. Comedian and watch collector Jerry Lewis owned a Bueche Girod, and Frank Sinatra wore one while performing at the Sands Casino. A million dollars was reportedly spent on wardrobe for Martin Scorsese’s crime drama Casino, and while jewelry collectors are likely familiar with the BVLGARI accessories worn by Sharon Stone's character in the movie, some of the budget went to the Bueche Girod watch worn by Robert De Niro in the film. 

Find vintage Bueche Girod watches on 1stDibs.