Any elite horse race offers a spectator sport that has nothing to do with thoroughbreds. In addition to the equine lineup, extravagant headwear has become a fixture at such events. The tradition began with early-19th-century society ladies flaunting decorated bonnets and wide-brimmed hats at Britain’s Royal Ascot. Kentucky Derby chapeaus tend to skew away from the sleek, monochromatic aesthetic toward a more eclectic look. But in a crowded field of feathers and tulle, a classic design can easily pull ahead. This woven Christian Dior haute couture hat is a piece of fashion history and a clear frontrunner.
“Personally, I believe that a woman without a hat is not completely dressed.” So proclaimed Christian Dior in his 1957 autobiography, Dior by Dior, published 10 years after he designed one of the most iconic hats of the 20th century. Monsieur Dior debuted his New Look in 1947 as part of his first collection, and it quickly became the style du jour. This hat, which is being offered on 1stDibs by Sabina, is modeled after Dior’s effortlessly chic design from nearly 80 years ago.
Meticulously woven from jet-black wicker by the house’s haute couture atelier, the sloped saucer has a dramatic wide brim and a shallow crown, and is lined with a simple band of grosgrain ribbon.
Wicker may seem an unusual choice for couture, but weaving is fundamental to the brand. Dior’s geometric cannage (“caning”) pattern first appeared on perfume packaging, in 1953. Inspired by the rattan seats of the Napoleon III–style chairs used in that seminal 1947 show, it has since been applied to clothing, jewelry and accessories. Notable among the last is the 1990s quilted-leather Lady Dior bag, named for Lady Diana Spencer, who favored the style. Cannage lends itself particularly well to a sophisticated daytime hat, as it allows air to pass through without blowing the headwear away. And its structural qualities suit it to elegantly crafted shapes.
History tends to focus on the New Look’s famous hourglass-shaped Bar jacket, named after Le Bar at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, where Dior was a frequent patron. Also acclaimed is the accompanying pleated skirt, a decided rejection of early-20th-century silhouettes and hemlines. But the hat is the crowning element that completes the New Look. Its wide shape was designed to mirror the outward curve of the jacket’s padded hips while accentuating the contrasting nipped waist. It also provides compositional balance to the full skirt. Only with the hat is the wearer, in Dior’s words, “completely dressed.”
Many will recognize the New Look silhouette from the iconic 1957 photo shoot by Willy Maywald commemorating its 10th anniversary. But the design continues to evolve. The original ensemble was a focal point of the 2021 Dior retrospective at the Brooklyn Museum. The contemporary edition of the outfit graced the exhibition poster and catalogue cover for the 2022 exhibition celebrating the art of the hat at the Musée Christian Dior, in Granville, France. Three years earlier, Elle Fanning made a sensational vintage-inspired appearance on the 2019 Cannes red carpet wearing the same ensemble, including the woven hat, looking every bit the mid-century movie star.
Dior began his fashion career as a hatmaker, and Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Halston trained as milliners before building their empires — which goes to show that this fashion element should never be an afterthought. Choosing the right statement chapeau for a hat-focused event like the Derby can be intimidating, but this hat makes more than an ephemeral statement. It is an icon with a storied past stretching back over half a century. It’s easy to fall prey to ostentation, but slow, steady and chic will always win the style race.
