Rolex‘s iconic Oyster Perpetual collection took a modern turn in 2020, when the firm, much to the delight of the collector community, introduced a colorful lineup of lacquered dials and a larger, 41 mm case size (up from 39 mm). Since then, even more variations have been introduced in this entry-level line, including whimsical multihued and themed dials that have kept the watch world enthralled. As fun as these dials are, and as much as they demonstrate the house’s creativity, there is nothing like pure, classic Rolex green on a simple, time-only dial. This 41 mm model, offered by Brillante Jewels, embodies the essence of the new Rolex OP aesthetic. As new/old stock, it is unworn.
The glossy-colored dials of the new generation of OPs are created using six layers of lacquer, which must be meticulously applied in a controlled-atmosphere environment to avoid dust and other contamination. The process results in regular, uniform surfaces suffused with rich, lasting hues — the dials will not become discolored or transform into “tropical” ones in the years to come. The final step is varnishing and polishing to bring out the lacquer’s full brilliance and depth of color. The various inscriptions are then pad printed, and the hour markers and crown riveted on by hand.
The movement in these watches is also made to last. It is the newer, in-house caliber 3230 automatic, which launched not only in the new OP but in the 2020 Rolex Submariner 124060 as well. It has a 70-hour power reserve and carries both COSC and Rolex Superlative Chronometer certifications, attesting that it is accurate to a stunning two seconds a day on average. Rolex’s patented Parachrom hairspring is crafted from an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in the event of shocks.
Before Rolex revived the OP, instilling the collection with a youthful energy through luscious lacquer dials and a new movement, the watch world had been busy obsessing over the Daytona. The famous chronograph had become to Rolex what the Nautilus had to Patek Philippe — a flip monster that threatened to overshadow the brands’ other watches, no matter how worthy. Today, the OP is one of the most accessible models in the current Rolex collection yet also increasingly sought-after on both the primary and secondary markets (as are all-steel Rolex models at the moment). Fun to wear, easy to trade — it’s a win-win!
