Coach Kiss Lock Clutch

The name Bonnie Cashin may not be as recognizable as those of other fashion greats, like Tom Ford, Donna Karan or Bill Blass, but few designers have made as profound an impact on American sportswear. 

Born in 1907, Cashin began her career as a costume designer in the late 1920s, founding her own line, Bonnie Cashin Designs, in 1952. She created uniforms for American Airlines flight attendants and American servicewomen during World War II and collaborated with more than 35 brands, including Ballantyne and Hermès. 

Perhaps best known for her work as lead designer at Coach from 1961 to 1974, Cashin also had a fruitful collaboration, from 1951 to 1977, with the leather manufacturer Sills. For Sills, she playfully mixed and matched materials in her work, and her exceptional coats and other outerwear dazzled with bold patterns an exaggerated sleeves.

Cashin created convertible garments using ingenious engineering and is even credited with the modern concept of layering, which won her a Neiman Marcus award in 1950. So, although her work might be a bit under the radar, those in the know covet Cashin treasures — collectors have evidently snapped up examples of a statement coat she designed for Sills during the late 1960s. The piece, which is made of a chunky mohair yarn woven in a vibrant lime-green-and-black oversize houndstooth pattern, is documented in Stephanie Lake’s 2016 monograph, Bonnie Cashin: Chic Is Where You Find It (Rizzoli).

Vintage Cashin pieces, which were informed by the designer’s global travels, have sparked fervent online discussions, with a growing community of enthusiasts sharing tips on sourcing and thoughtful restoration of her timeless works, particularly her Coach bags. 

Indeed, fifty years after her departure, her contributions to Coach’s identity remain commercially successful and beloved by collectors. The brass turnlock, introduced by Cashin in 1961, is now a hallmark of the brand. And her clever antique-style metal kiss-lock clasps and inset coin-purse pockets were prominently featured in Coach’s New York Fashion Week presentation in 2024.

Nearly a quarter century after her death, in 2000, Cashin’s designs remain strikingly original. Ironically, a designer frequently overlooked in discussions of mid-century fashion is the visionary talent behind pieces that, once seen, are completely unforgettable.

Find vintage Bonnie Cashin bags and clothing for sale on 1stDibs.

Vintage and designer clutches are the perfect size to hold exactly what you need. While they’re typically small purses, Chanel clutches, Gucci clutches and other kinds of clutches can make a big impact on an outfit. They also have a fascinating history.

Clutches are handbags without handles that are carried by hand. One of the oldest known clutches was made in Mosul, Iraq, in the 14th century. It was made of brass and inlaid with gold and silver in geometric patterns. Although the loops on the side indicate it likely had handles to wear as a shoulder bag, manuscripts show a similar example being carried by hand.

Fashion designers often made clutches to reflect the wealth of the holder. In Medieval Europe, men and women securely carried items in small bags hidden inside their clothing as tie-on pockets. Women carried their possessions, scented and secreted, in the folds of their voluminous skirts. Pockets eventually became integral to garment design, but bigger sacks were needed to carry books and documents. When women’s clothing became lighter, consisting of fewer layers, it could no longer easily hide their handbags or pockets.

Changes in fashion led to handbags becoming a popular fashion accessory, and today, even as we’re overwhelmed by options from a variety of high-end brands, iconic luxury handbags still rule. The highly decorative bags of the 19th century faded from popularity when women entered the workforce and the clutch became the dominant business accessory. Flappers in the 1920s, clad in the dazzling Art Deco jewelry of the era, also loved the freedom of carrying clutches as they didn’t get in the way of dancing.

The simplicity of the clutch remains stylish today. Once made to be carried on special occasions, they are now an accessory for everyday use. Find a collection of vintage and designer clutches from Dior, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and more on 1stDibs.