20th Century Drop Necklaces

It sits quietly at the neck calling attention to its dignity. Spun of platinum and white gold, in linear and vertical form, the pendant is delicate, strong and like urban 1920's arch...

INDULGE IN A WONDERFUL CADUCEUS PENDANT WITH ENTWINED SNAKES IN 10 KARAT YELLOW GOLD. The caduceus is a symbol that features two snakes wrapped around...

This majestic necklace features a showstopping 43.50 carat Oval Blue Topaz set in an elaborate 18 karat yellow gold and Diamond setting. The pendant is set on a strand of natural co...

Designed to be seamlessly worn in multiple ways Circa - 1969 Approximate Total Diamond Weight -55.00 CTS Signed - VCA

Wonderful gold plated hoop drops necklace, with plastic red coral beads, and textured round end pieces. There is no clasp. Measuring necklace length 72 cm / 28.3 inches. The pendant...

Magnificent 18 kt. Yellow Gold Adler Genève Set Necklace & Earrings With Emerald and Diamonds from Estate Sultan Of Oman Qaboos Bin Said. Completely Hand made by Adler Genève, one o...

It comes with the Gemological Appraisal by GIA GG/AJP All Gemstones are Natural Emeralds = 75.25 Carats Diamonds = 44.85 Carats Clarity: E-G; Clarity: VVS-SI Metal: 18K Gold Necklace...

Robert Goosens, the French haute-couture Chanel-favorite parurier who enjoyed reinterpreting ancient and antique styles of jewelry with rock crystal and faux stones, also collaborated with Madame Alix Gres. Relevant to this statement necklace, the Parisian theatrical-costume designer, who founded the French fashion-house Maison Gres, commissioned Goosens to make spiral-wire adornments for her couture gowns. This handmade hammered brass wire choker necklace with five dropped en-tremblant pendants is decorated with unique colorful beads and wrapped wire. The piece dates between 1969-1971 based on similar unsigned spiraled-wire metal jewelry without goldsmithing marks in the museum collection of TheMet (see our photo), which acquired it from Maison Givenchy founder Hubert de Givenchy, who was one of most supportive fans of Gres. Like the legendary sculptural clothing designs of Madame Gres, this necklace was inspired by Greco-Roman costumes, while its sculpted shapes by Goosens reference her signature curvilinear fabric techniques that earned her the sobriquet of "the master of the wrapped and draped dress". Goosens (1927-2016), nicknamed Monsieur Bijou, also made jewelry inspired by other periods of antiquity to compliment the couture clothing of Coco Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. After Goosens collaborated with Gres, he revisited golden spiral designs with Saint Laurent. Similar to the free-flowing fabric manipulated in Gres gowns, this hand-shaped necklace that we photographed in sunlight is a study in motion that drapes across a curvy cleavage. Adding drama to this necklace below its wire choker, the top teetering-wire pendant is a twisted and hammered horizontal double spiral, which is a Hellenistic symbol of life and transformation suggesting the breasts of a goddess of fertility and motherhood. Yet distinctly Goosens, 18 hand-cut and hand-dyed "ancient-Roman-blue" rock-crystal beads are wire-strung to weight a second tier of two separate vertical double-spiral pendants. On each, a wrapped-wire tube divides the blue beads. Between these vertical pendants in two tiers, the central vertical pendants each feature a one-of-a-kind multicolor bead (yellow/blue/red/black/white) in two lengths with abstract organic patterns recalling ancient Italian glasswork. Four more blue beads bracket these larger colorful beads. An additional 10 blue beads and 5 wire tubes decorate the bottom looped wire pendant, as well as the bottom of the wire choker. Like the hammered-wire jewelry designs of modern artist Alexander Calder, the creative complex construction of this necklace surprisingly required no metalsmith techniques, such as soldering or casting, just great skill with a jewelry pliers and hammer. For a bigger picture of couture clothing by Madame Gres during the decade beginning in 1969, she notably designed many museum-collected one-color silk-taffeta draped long gowns with empire waists and simple high collars or geometric cut-outs. Remarkably, the focal points for some of these unique dresses were at the wrists, from where long pouf sleeves voluminously droop around the hands to nearly the floor like two enormous long-petaled flowers. If paired with this equally downward-focused and balanced necklace from this same period, its bold Greco-Roman elements would have pulled a viewer's gaze of the dress from floor to face. Although there is no significant provenance for this necklace, hammered brass and tinted rock crystal were among the few materials repeatedly associated with Goosens from 1969-71. For example, in his overlapping interior-decor collections based on themes of waterlilies or foliage, Goosens hammered gilt brass wire and sheets (see our closeup photo) to represent plant parts or he wired rock-crystal beads to appear as tiny fruits. While the two multicolor glass or resin beads in this necklace are atypical, the combination of blue, yellow and red is a palette that the designer used for other pieces of rock-crystal jewelry and he created many kinds of multicolor faux stones with glass or resin paste, such as faux Tibetan turquoise including black and white. According to journalism based on interviews with Goosens, he often acquired unusual stones and glass for inspiration during his extensive travels exploring museum-collected antiquities. Since Maison Goosens was acquired in 2005 by Maison Chanel, it opened the Parisian showroom Galerie Goosens and associated shops to sell many kinds of reproductions and reimagined works by the founder, which fortunately does not suit the completely handmade elements of this necklace. So this couture piece remains one-of-a-kind. If desiring a vintage haute-couture original by Robert Goosens, we recommend perusing the Maison Goosens website so that a reproduction with a contemporary signature is not mistakenly purchased. Madame Gres (1903-1993) was born Germaine Emelie Krebs, but initially identified her fashion designs with the pseudonym Alix and later Alix Barton...

Vintage Scassi goldtone rope necklace surrounding Lucite cylinders and square rhinestones. The clasp has a rhinestone center surrounded by seven faux-pearls. Center rhinestone piece,...

An Edwardian natural pearl and diamond necklace, the pear-shaped pearl measuring approximately 6.0 x 10.7 mm accompanied by GCS report stating to be natural of saltwater origin, susp...

This stunning estate piece is Designed in the art deco Tutti Frutti style. This pendant necklace composed of round brilliant diamonds hand set in Platinum with a Art Deco Tutti Frutt...

Early piece of Philippe Ferrandis Brutalist in design. Simply stunning! This makes a statement. Large Cross. Long Beaded Chain made up of natural stones and poured glass. The Cross s...

Beautiful reworked necklace featuring a lovely tiara piece with crystals, and Czech peking glass drops and a centre long black glass drop. These are vintage components, circa 1930s. ...

A vintage French diamond and platinum riviére necklace, with graduating drops, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, in four claw settings, with diamonds above, onto an articulating...

This contemporary necklace is a true statement piece, meticulously crafted in 18K yellow gold and adorned with a dazzling array of 209 diamonds. Each of the diamonds is carefully set...

Large and Important Maison Gripoix for Yves Saint Laurent butterfly bib necklace circa 1970. Of amythest and deep aquamarine Gripoix poured gla...

Beautiful vintage Rochas tassel perfume pendant necklace. I love the combination of the fuchsia pink silk cord and the cobalt blue miniature p...

POGGI PARIS Necklace, Sky Blue and Deep Blue Stones and Gold Tone Metal Chain, Vintage from the 1980's Signed POGGI PARIS near the clasp CONDITION...

Finely detailed antique Edwardian era negligee drop necklace (circa 1900s to 1910s), crafted in 900 platinum (sterling silver jump ring). The east west facing circular mount is set...

Pierre Cardin vintage modern gold and white tone metal necklace. Pendant measures almost 5" long and is made in two sections. The chain is made up of gold tube beads linked together...

The master craftsmen of Harry Winston have used over 20 carats of diamonds to create this elegant flower garland necklace which centers on an acorn-form cultured pearl drop. The design is completed by a substantial diamond flower clasp...

THIS IS A MAGNIFICENT JEWEL. THE STUNNING MONUMENTAL 18 CARAT PEAR SHAPED FACETED SIBERIAN AMETHYST OF GREAT BEAUTY IS SURROUNDED BY 16 DIAMONDS TOTALING APPROXIMATELY 1.5 CT IN A C...

Beautiful and Finely elaborate 65´s Colombian Emerald Necklace in 18k white gold - with 7 colombian emerald cut emeralds which total aproximate 11,5ct -and 55 natural diamonds ma...

This high-quality necklace is crafted from natural undyed Mediterranean red blood coral, interspersed with natural, irregular branches that give the piece a bold and distinctive look...

A long necklace sautoir with color sapphires. A versatile long necklace sautoir, crafted in Italy with 18 karats yellow gold stations and seventy-nice carved natural sapphires of di...

Victorian silver locket with enamelled rose and mirrored compartment. Beautiful enamelling and condition. Placed on a contemporary sterling ball chain which works really well togethe...

A vintage sapphire and diamond convertible tiara necklace. An exceptional vintage sapphire and diamond convertible tiara and necklace set, ...

Lovely enamel pendant from the art nouveau period. Scandanavian in origin with iris floral motif and set in sterling silver. Matching detachable chain has enamelled links to match.

Category

Art Nouveau 20th Century Drop Necklaces

Materials

Sterling Silver