East Meets West in Austy Lee’s Bold Jade-and-Onyx Earrings

The interplay of purple and green jade “creates a captivating, psychedelic experience,” says the Hong Kong–based designer.

“The Art Deco style has influenced me a lot, especially in its details related to exoticism and its requirements for geometry,” says the visionary young designer Austy Lee, referring to the inspiration for this pair of one-of-a-kind statement earrings.

Composed of graphic circles, loops and bold onyx disks, the earrings display a strong Eastern sensibility. The lantern-shaped drops, for example, nod to the lanterns traditionally used in Chinese festivals. The vibrant jadeite — a Chinese symbol of good luck, prosperity, wisdom, compassion and courage — is likewise imbued with meaning.

The use of such visually arresting, symbolic details is a constant in the Hong Kong–based Lee’s work, and emblematic of his background in graphic design and illustration. He pivoted to fine jewelry in 2006, when he began an apprenticeship with the heritage Swiss high-jewelry design house Adler, which has an atelier in Hong Kong. Later, he became chief designer at Wendy Yue; the pieces he designed during his tenure there were worn by such stylish luminaries as Michelle Obama, Rihanna, Madonna and Jennifer Lopez.

Lee established his eponymous line in 2017, largely catering to a network of private collectors who appreciate his “insights into culture and art,” which, he explains, “represent a form of cultural exchange rather than just the act of buying and selling jewelry itself.”

The artist’s devotees are particularly drawn to his imaginative use of color. Using wildly luxurious gems to tell his stories, Lee likens his jewelry to the beguiling chaos of psychedelic art. “I love exploring color combinations, blending and contrasting them to produce stunning visual effects,” he says. “The vibrant colors and intricate patterns in my jewelry are reminiscent of the designs seen in thangkas and mandalas.”

The earrings’ purple jadeite elements are uniquely compelling, because the luscious hue is natural — not produced by dye, as is often the case in lesser jewelry creations. “It is exceptionally rare to find jade with an intense purple color,” says Lee. “When chromium is present, it imparts a green hue, while manganese contributes to the stone’s purple coloration.”

Look closely at the earrings, and you will see that the gems are set in vibrant purple and green metal, which Lee produces using a special color-plating technique on 18-karat gold. As a bonus, “the color coating can be easily removed and replaced according to the customers’ preferences, providing the option to refresh or change the look of the piece whenever they desire,” he says. “I’m committed to creating high-quality pieces that retain their value while offering versatility.”


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