Cartier has proved its prowess in every category of high watchmaking, from groundbreaking movements to handcrafted métiers d’art dials. At the same time, it tends to eschew fashion trends and the complications of high-tech watchmaking in favor of preserving the purity of its design icons.
The Panthère de Cartier is such an icon. Like all great designs, it works in any decade, because it looks as fresh as when it was introduced, in 1983. The Panthère was a smash hit throughout the 1980s and 1990s, becoming one of the world’s most recognizable watches. It was — and still is — not just for women (Timothée Chalamet has been photographed wearing a 23 mm model). It reigns as one of the great gender-neutral watch designs of all time, and this yellow-gold double-wrap version is especially alluring.
“The Panthère’s iconic design has made it a timeless favorite, which is why we always try to keep it in stock,” says Mariana Lopez, of Wrist Aficionado, which is offering the watch on 1stDibs. “The petite square case makes it incredibly versatile, perfect for both everyday wear and special occasions.”
The Panthère was discontinued in the early 2000s but revived in 2017, with its essential design language intact. Since then, it has been released in several special editions, which have become highly collectible. This model, for example, has a double-tour bracelet. The signature five rows of links, always supple and promoting wearability, wrap around the wrist twice.
“The double bracelet is one of its most unique features, as it wears like silk on the wrist and offers both a gorgeous piece of jewelry and a practical timepiece in one,” says Lopez. “To us, it’s wearable art and a perfect example of Cartier’s craftsmanship. Having worked at Wrist Aficionado, I’ve seen many stunning Cartier timepieces we’ve sourced, but this one remains one of my personal favorites. Panthère watches have always been iconic, but the double tour adds a touch of uniqueness that still feels effortless for everyday wear.”
The case and bracelet are both 18-karat yellow gold, the preferred gold color of the ’80s, the era of the Panthère’s triumphant introduction and emergence as a true icon, with its signature Roman numerals, railway chapter ring and blued hands. At a wearable 30.3 millimeters by 22.0 millimeters, the case easily accommodates the double bracelet. The watch is powered by a precise quartz movement, the WGPN0039, which not only keeps the proportions slim compared with modern mechanical movements but also delivers reliable performance with minimal maintenance.
The double-tour model elevates the Panthère because of its rarity as a special edition. “Every piece from Cartier’s Panthère collection tends to appreciate over time,” says Lopez. “But since the double tour is a more recent addition to the collection, there are fewer available, which adds to its resale value.”
