Delicate and sensitive to the slightest whisper of a breeze, feathers have captured our imagination for millennia as ethereal symbols of freedom and flight, bridging the gap between the earth and the infinite sky above. This two-toned feather brooch, crafted in hand-carved red chalcedony and black onyx by late-19th-to-mid-20th-century Viennese maker Paltscho, reflects the sense of freedom and self-expression that swept across Europe in the 1920s.
Founded by Ernst Paltscho in 1899, the eponymous jewelry house catered to the social elite, including members of the Greek royal household. Its designs often featured natural motifs, like flowers, butterflies, feathers and leaves, carved from hardstones in an Art Deco style evoking the era’s glamour and sophistication.
In this case, each thread-like barb of the feather has been painstakingly carved, lending depth and texture to the piece and enhancing the subtle curve of the plume.
Seven bezel-set round diamonds sit on the surface of the feather like raindrops, while an additional 16 rose-cut diamonds adorn the solid 18-karat white-gold stem.
“You only have to see this brooch for a second to understand how finely executed it is, made with patience and precision,” says jewelry expert Armando De Falco, founder of the Naples, Italy–based boutique Hawkantiques, which is offering the piece on 1stDibs. “In fact, its reverse is as beautifully carved as the front, which really makes it extremely special.”
Such well-preserved carved-gemstone pieces by Paltscho are incredibly hard to find, and one with so many markers tying it to the virtuosic atelier is especially rare. “Usually,” De Falco explains, “we would expect to see a single hallmark and a signature on a brooch like this, but this piece has three hallmark punches and the Paltscho name, which makes it very distinctive. In my view, it is more than just a decorative jewel, it is a noble work of art.”
