Many collectors prioritize jewelry that is signed or branded. Those with a passion for Georgian jewelry, however, know that the absence of hallmarks or maker’s marks is actually a sign of authenticity for pieces from this era (1714 to 1837). “It was only in the 1900s that hallmarks began to appear,” explains Stephanie Levy, owner of Stephanie Windsor World, who is offering this pair of bracelets, made in the 1790s, on 1stDibs.
The flat cut of the garnets in the pieces is also characteristic of the period, according to Levy. Georgian jewelers would use this faceting technique to impart a smooth surface and enhance the gems’ color, in this case, a rich cranberry hue. “The flat-cut style was partly a result of the limitations in hand-cutting techniques available at the time, but also it was definitely an aesthetic preference for the Georgians,” says Levy. “And like many jewels from the Georgian era, the gems here are backed in foil, a clever period technique that amplified the stones’ natural fire under candlelight.”
Levy stresses how rare it is to find a matched set of Georgian bracelets in such pristine condition. “The scarcity of authentic Georgian pieces adds to their allure,” she says, noting that most jewelry from the period has disappeared, or been dismantled or lost to the ravages of time, travel or even war. The knowledgeable collector, she adds, appreciates that Georgian jewels “offer tangible connections to history and yet are always so relevant. They elevate moments in a way that is striking and unique, versus easily categorized. Instead of being one of many, they are one of a kind.”
Levy says the two bracelets were almost certainly produced as a matching set. “The trend was all about pairs and sets, and parures were very much in vogue. They could be quite extensive — sometimes containing up to 16 items. The matching garnet bracelets could have been part of a larger parure, along with other garnet pieces, such as necklaces, earrings or hair ornaments. The Georgians loved to display their wealth and sense of style.”
She imagines that today the bracelets would look particularly chic “with a fabulous sweater. The rich color of the garnets against cashmere is an excellent pairing. You can go cozy, casual or elegant with these — garnets light up a room.”
