In the hands of Thierry Mugler, wardrobe staples became sensational. Mugler took typical styles from the 1980s and 1990s and infused them with a drama and mythical fantasy that set him apart from his contemporaries. His exaggerated silhouettes and imaginative embellishments came to define the era and continue to captivate the fashion industry.
A recurring influence throughout Mugler’s prolific career is the character of the femme fatale. The associated aesthetic, seductive, avant-garde and powerful, has a natural kinship with that of drag, a world where Mugler commands lasting reverence. The latest episode of Objects of Desire, the 1stDibs podcast, features Detox, a world-renowned drag artist, two-time RuPaul’s Drag Race contestant and self-proclaimed Mugler fanatic. She spills on her obsession with the late designer and shares a special piece from her personal collection.
We’ve selected six vintage Mugler gems here as a prologue to the work of one of fashion history’s most theatrical visionaries.
Thierry Mugler Sculpted Dress, Fall/Winter 1995
For the 2013 Season 5 finale of RuPaul’s Drag Race, Detox paired this Fall/Winter 1995 Mugler dress with a monochromatic makeup scheme that is still celebrated. Transforming herself into a black-and-white television siren was a cosmetic feat, but Mugler’s sculpted cutout neckline and waist-snatching structure completed the visual fantasy. The combination formed one of the most iconic looks in Drag Race “herstory.”
Thierry Mugler Archival Electric Blue Jacket, 1987
Any Mugler jacket is difficult to ignore, but the designer’s sharp construction married to electric blue is head turning. This rare 1987 blazer is contoured with graphic black trim that emphasizes its dramatic silhouette. Meryl Streep recently wore an identical jacket while promoting The Devil Wears Prada 2, a sartorial choice of which her on-screen incarnation, Miranda Priestly, would undoubtedly approve.
Thierry Mugler Les Infernales Vampire Suit, Fall/Winter 1988
Mugler famously (and somewhat precariously) photographed his Fall/Winter 1988 collection for Avenue magazine atop iconic New York City buildings. In one of the celebrated images, supermodel Carol Wilson is perched on the Woolworth Building wearing the Vampire suit. Crafted from blood-red wool with threatening pointed details, it is one of Mugler’s most recognizable designs. And the collection it hails from perfectly embodies his bewitching style. After all, the collection’s name, Les Infernales, is French for “she devils.”
Thierry Mugler Jacket, Fall/Winter 1998
A textbook example of classic Muglerian tailoring, this Fall/Winter 1998 blazer is cut with broad padded shoulders, a nipped waist and a structured hip. The resulting hourglass figure is found in many Mugler designs, but this manifestation boasts a dazzling sunburst of crystals at the neck. Kept in place by sharp faceted prongs, they sparkle with the severe glamour for which the designer was famous.
Thierry Mugler Les Infernales Lightning Bolt Jacket, Fall/Winter 1988
When Samantha Jones needed an outfit that conveyed her determination in bidding on a coveted piece of jewelry in the Sex and the City movie, she naturally chose Mugler. Any well-heeled, savvy publicist would appreciate the magnetic power of a canary-yellow Lightning Bolt jacket from the designer’s Fall/Winter 1988 collection, and this purple version is no less alluring. Although Samantha was outbid in the auction salesroom, her outfit still won the day.
Therry Mugler Hiver Shiva Surréaliste Gown, Fall/Winter 1991
Mugler’s runways were always magical, and for Fall/Winter 1991, he conjured a sorceress. The Hiver Shiva Surréaliste collection wed the visual language of artists like Salvador Dalí to the iconography of the multiarmed Hindu deity Shiva, birthing a uniquely mystical aesthetic. This exceptionally rare hooded dress renders the designer’s signature tailoring in semi-sheer silk, a departure from his usual razor-sharp structure. By infusing the fluid material with occult symbols, Mugler proved that in his universe, even the ethereal has a dark side.
